The sleeping giant
We all know famous, well-supported and once-great clubs that have now fallen on harder times. The loyal, long-suffering fans of these sleeping giants still remember former triumphs and dream that one day their club will be back where it deserves to be. Now and then a strong start to the season, a string of good performances or the emergence of a talented player re-ignite the hope that this will be their year. Fans learn to live from a diet of mid-table mediocrity spiced up by occasional battles against relegation and runs for promotion. But the size of the club and numbers and passion of its fans lead everyone to think it could and should be doing better than this.
Fortuna Düsseldorf is just such a club. It was founded in 1895. And in the 1920s and 1930s was one of the top sides in Germany, winning the league and cup as well as providing players for the national side. In the 1970s and 1980s, it became a household name once more, achieving 16 years in the Bundesliga, two cup final wins, and a series of international appearances. But since the 1980s Fortuna has been what the Germans call an elevator side, moving up and down the leagues. At one point they fell as far as the fourth division before climbing right back to the top tier and were last in the Bundesliga in the 2012/13 season.
But Fortuna fans have stayed loyal through the bad times as well as the good. 12,000 fans bought season tickets at the beginning of the 2017/18 season and average attendance was 28,838 – third highest in the division.
And this loyalty has been rewarded. On the last day of the season, Fortuna Düsseldorf beat 1 FC Nürnberg to become second division champions and earn automatic promotion back to the Bundesliga.
Top level football has returned to the ESPRIT Arena
Getting to Düsseldorf
Flights
If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about £100.
Düsseldorf Airport
Düsseldorf has its own airport, which is about 15 minutes from the city centre. There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. A platform for the S11 train line, which will take you right into the city centre in about ten minutes, is right next to the arrivals gate. Alternatively, if you follow the signs for the Skytrain, a .. will take you in five minutes to the airport station where you get a wider choice of trains.
Cologne Bonn Airport
There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stanstead, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. There are direct trains to Düsseldorf and the journey will take about 30 minutes.
Travelling in the region
Düsseldorf belongs to an integrated public transport system managed by an organisation called VRR. You can use VRR tickets on any regional and local train, tram, underground and bus across the entire network. The VRR website explains in English how it all works.
Tickets
Games rarely sell out and so you can buy tickets on the day. But if you want to avoid queues, the best thing to do is go to the club shop on Burgplatz or the tourist information office opposite the station. There will be somebody there who can speak English and advise you on the best place to sit.
You can also order your tickets before you set off at the online shop.
Your ticket will entitle you to free travel to and from the ground.
Getting to the ground
The journey to the ESPRIT Arena could not be more straightforward. You simply hop on the U78 underground train which will take you directly to the stadium in about 20 minutes.
Inside the ESPRIT Arena
The ESPRIT Arena was opened in 2004. It has room for 54,600 fans (9,917 standing) and is used for international matches as well as concerts and other sporting events.
There is a retractable roof, which is deployed in bad weather, and a unique central heating system ensures that even in winter the temperature in the stands is at least 15 degrees.
As you would expect it is a very modern and comfortable stadium with plenty of indoor spaces and outlets for food and drink. There is also a fan shop selling scarves, shirts and memorabilia.
You can pay with cash and so you don’t need a pre-paid card. But if you buy a beer you have to pay a deposit for your glass.
After the game
Düsseldorf is large, modern city full of museums, galleries and parks, as well endless opportunities for shopping in fashionable department stores and elegant malls. And they say the Düsseldorf Altstadt is the longest bar in the world. So you are spoilt for choice.
You might want to try these before or after the football:
1. Spend some time at Uerige in Rheinstrasse.
This is a famous pub which brews its own beer called Alt. They also serve traditional Düsseldorf food. You can sit down inside if you want, but there is usually a big crowd of people outside as well. You get your drinks from waiters who come round with regular refills. While you are there, go round the corner. You will see people buying drinks from a little window beside a shop. This is Killepitsch – a local liqueur, which is said to be good for the digestion.
Directions: Just follow the signs for the Altstadt from the station. It will take you 15 minutes to get there.
2. Take the underground (U79) to Kaiserswerth.
This quiet town is about 15 minutes from the city centre. You can take a walk along the Rhine, have coffee and cakes (Café Schuster opposite the platform, Bäckerei Norgel on your left in the marketplace), have a typical pub meal and a beer (Bierhaus zum Einhorn in the marketplace) or just wander around. The snack bar on the platform is called Berliner Imbiss. It is said to do the best Bratwurst in Düsseldorf. There are also regular boats between the city centre and Kaiserswerth, so you might want to go back on the river. If you go back by underground, get out at Heinrich Heine Allee and take a walk through the Altstadt.
3. Take the underground (U74, U77, U75 or U76) to Oberkassel
This prosperous part of town is on the other side of the river. Get off at Barbarossaplatz and then walk back over the Oberkasseler bridge. You get a superb view of the Düsseldorf waterfront. Once you are back on the other side, keep walking towards the Altstadt. There is a row of restaurants and bars right on the river bank where you can get a decent meal. Or you might just want to watch how Germans unwind and enjoy themselves.
4. Visit the Mediahafen
This used to be the docks area, but the old warehouses have been converted into modern flats, offices and restaurants, or replaced by fascinating and quirky modern buildings.
Directions: You can walk there along the river from the Alstadt in about 15 minutes.
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