It’s time for the Revierderby again

Revierderby Schalke 04 shirt

The Ruhrgebiet has more football clubs than any other part of Germany.  It also has more pubs where people gather to talk about football before and after the game. So it’s not surprising that every there is a fiercely contested derby somewhere in the Ruhrgebiet every weekend. Tens of thousands of fans will turn out to see fourth tier clashes between clubs like Rot-Weiß Essen, SG Wattenscheid and Rot-Weiß Oberhausen.

And the biggest derby of all – the Revierderby –  is the clash between FC Schalke 04 and Borussia Dortmund.

The rivalry between these two massive clubs is one of the strongest in football, pitting neighbour against neighbour and workmate against workmate. Games are eagerly anticipated, always sold out, watched in homes and pubs across the region, and argued about for months before and after.

Revierderby BVB logo

Schalke fans mock Dortmund by calling it Lüdenscheidt Nord – the nearest small town.

Dortmund fans return the favour by talking about Herne instead of Schalke.

Fans refuse to refer to their rivals’ city by name, using instead the expression ‘die verbotene Stadt’ – ‘the forbidden city’.  They try to avoid going there (except, of course, on match days) and if you do happen to say the taboo words by mistake, it’s considered as bad as swearing. Indeed, in some pubs and fan clubs, you have to pay a fine into the ‘swear box’.

Each set of supporters has an extensive repertoire of insulting songs about their rivals. Sometimes the rivalry can lead to quite dangerous situations. There have been examples of fans being set upon and of scarves and flags being stolen. Recently, Dortmund fans fired a rocket into a stand full of Schalke fans.

Over 3,000 police and 1,000 security staff are required to maintain order at the grounds, and for hours before and after games, police maintain a massive presence in the towns and on public transport.

You would expect a degree of competition between two of the biggest clubs in Germany, who also happen to be close neighbours.  Just why the animosity is so intense is harder to explain. My view, for what it’s worth, is that it’s because the clubs are so similar.

Both have a long and proud history, emerging from similar working-class communities to become the dominant clubs in the region and two of the biggest, best-supported in the country.

The rise of both clubs was linked to the rapid expansion and industrialisation of the Ruhr region. In the tough early years of the twentieth century, football became hugely important in the area,  partly because it offered a sense of belonging and identity to newly arrived migrants and relief from the hardship of work in the mines and steelworks.  This meant not only that both clubs had a large fan base, but that the passion and loyalty of these fans were intense and extreme.

Both communities experienced the same economic decline through the later years of the century, as the heavy industries died and the large factories closed.  In those years, football was considered by many to be the only positive thing going.  People say that without BVB, no-one would have heard of Dortmund – and that Schalke is more famous than its hometown of Gelsenkirchen.

Both communities are still fiercely proud of the Ruhrgebiet’s industrial past, and still, recognise the workers who built their clubs.  For example, before games at Schalke, everyone rises (almost as if in church) to sing ‘das Steigerlied’ – the miners’ song – while old black and white footage of men working in the pits is shown on the big screen.

So supporting either club is about more than following a game.  It defines who you are.  People say, for example, that they were ‘born Schalke’ or ‘born Dortmund’ just like you might say you were born British. Loyalty to your club is also loyalty to your family, neighbours and community.

It is therefore not surprising that the atmosphere in and around derby games is so hot.

If you want to learn more, the documentary “A Feeling Deeper Than Hate” explains the rivalry between the two sets of fans brilliantly.

Find out more about the Revierderby

Book cover - FC Schalke 04
German Ruhrgebiet

12:0 and still not enough

Remembering a record win

29 April was the 40th anniversary of the Bundesliga’s highest ever score. On that day in 1978, Borussia Mönchengladbach, champions for the previous three years, defeated Borussia Dortmund 12:0 on the final day of the season, but missed winning a fourth title by three goals.

Title-winning form

Mönchengladbach had started the 1977/78 season poorly and after 11 games were languishing in 11th position. But a fantastic 7 game undefeated run and a strong start after the winter break put Gladbach back on track. In the second half of the season, Borussia dropped only eight points, scoring 47 and conceding 17 goals. In any other season, this would have brought a fourth successive championship title to Mönchengladbach.

A close finish

Unfortunately, neighbours and arch-rivals 1. FC Köln were also having one of their best seasons ever, playing inspiring and entertaining football and winning game after game. 

As they went into the last matchday Köln and Borussia jointly led the Bundesliga on points, but Köln, with a better goal difference, looked more likely to clinch the title. And to make matters worse, while Borussia faced Borussia Dortmund away, Köln were up against already relegated St. Pauli. 

A new record

What happened at Dortmund on that day is hard to believe. Heynckes, playing his last game for the foals, scored in the 1st  and 12th minutes and by halftime, Borussia were leading 6:0. The final score was 12:0, with five goals from Heynckes, two each from Nielsen and De l’Haye, and one apiece from Wimmer, Lienen and Kulik. This remains the biggest victory margin ever in the Bundesliga. Surely it was enough to even out the goal difference with Köln?

Unfortunately not. Cheered on by their own and the opposing fans, Köln put five goals past St. Pauli and ended the season with a slightly better goal difference. Both teams had scored 86 goals, but Borussia had conceded 3 more than Köln, who therefore emerged as winners.

To make matters worse, the Köln coach that season was none other than Hennes Weisweiler, who had until recently been leading Borussia to glory at home and abroad.

Fans of Borussia Moenchengladbach

Find out more about Borussia Mönchengladbach and German football.

The German Football Museum

The German Football Museum in Dortmund tells you all you need to know about German football history.

Football history at its best

The German Football Museum is right in front of Dortmund main station, making it one of the simplest destinations in the region for football fans.  Spread over three floors of a brand new building, it offers a panoramic and highly informative overview of the story of German football at national and club level.  Memorabilia and descriptions (in English as well as German), audio visual presentations and high-tech displays keep the visitor engaged and intrigued from start to finish.  It will cost you 17 euros to get in, but for anyone interested in the story of German football and its interaction with history and society, this is money very well spent.  I spent over three hours there and came out inspired and fascinated.

Through the players’ tunnel and into the Miracle of Bern

The tour starts in the ‘players’ tunnel’.  This is an escalator journey through the sights and sounds of football – a huge visual display of club colours, badges, scarves and slogans, and the noise of fans cheering, shouting and chanting that gets louder as you go up.  You then emerge onto the third floor for the ‘first half’ of your visit.

And you start right in the middle of one of the biggest events in German football history – the ‘Miracle of Bern’.  This is the story of how, against all the odds, underdogs Germany won the 1954 World Cup.  As you would expect, you can read about the games, the players and the tactics. 

The entrance to the German Football Museum
German Football Museum - the boot that scored the winning World Cup goal in 1954

There are full-length photos of the entire starting eleven, and masses of memorabilia, including the very boot Helmut Rahn used to score the winning goal in the final against Hungary. My favourite section was a re-created 1950s sitting room, including a television from the period showing highlights of the final.  So you hear the voice of Robert Zimmerman providing one of Germany most famous sporting broadcasts  – the equivalent of “They think it’s all over” – as people would have heard it at the time

World Cups

I then struggled to decide what to look at next. You are spoiled for choice, and everywhere you look something cries out for your attention.

In the end, I decided to spend twenty minutes looking at three huge screens showing highlights of world cup games through the decades.  Winning four World Cups and three Euros is a stunning achievement.  Just as impressive is that while there is lots of celebration and pride in the display, there is absolutely no triumphalism.

Next, I looked at an interactive display about Geoff Hurst’s disputed goal in 1966 World Cup Final. After watching and controlling replays from different angles you get to vote on whether you think it was a goal or not.  After long deliberation, I voted yes, of course. 

German Football Museum - the story of German football

The story of German football

Then it was time for a display about the history of German football and the German Football Association.  There was memorabilia, of course,  but also plenty of facts and stories.  Quite rightly, the game’s origins in Great Britain and the influence of our clubs and coaches in the early years is acknowledged.  A section on football under the Nazis made sure the darker side of German history is not glossed over.  As well as describing the marginalisation and exclusion of Jews from their clubs, this display includes the sad story of Julius Hirsch,  a veteran of the First World War and the first Jew to play for the German national side, who was deported to Auschwitz where he was murdered. 

As Germany is the only nation to have won both the men’s and women’s World Cup it is only right that the women’s game also gets good really good coverage.  The story of football in the German Democratic Republic is also not forgotten.

The Golden Generation

Then I found myself in a section called the ‘Golden Generation’. This stunning multimedia presentation is narrated by Head Coach Joachim Löw about the years leading up to the 2014 World Cup finals. He describes how Germany recovered from the disaster of Euro 2000 to get closer and closer to and finally achieving the goal of becoming World Champions.   

3D Cinema

Next, you go to the 3D cinema.  This is like no other cinema I have ever seen.  You don’t need special glasses – everything appears as if in three dimensions right in front of you.  Holograms of stars such as Phillip Lahm, Bastian Schweinsteiger and Christoph Kramer recount their favourite memories of the World Cup campaign and how they felt at different moments.  These appearances are interspersed with footage of games and interviews with other players.  Of course, there is a big section on the 7:1 semi-final victory over Brazil. The grand finale of the presentation is a re-enactment by Mario Götze of his winning goal in the dying minutes of the final against Argentina.  Although everything was in German, I would imagine non-German speakers would still get a lot out of this film – particularly Götze’s final shot!

This marked the end of the ‘first half’ and I had another difficult choice to make:  whether to take a half time break upstairs in the restaurant or to continue straight into the ‘second half’.  I opted to keep going.

Trophies, coaches and tactics

A staircase brought me out in the trophy cabinet, and there they were – the World and European Cups alongside dozens of other pieces of shiny silverware.

This was followed by a huge display about the history of tactics and training, including footage of all the great club managers. 

The German Football Museum: Tactics

The clubs

You then move on to a section covering  German club football from its beginnings up to the formation of the Bundesliga in 1963. – the early clubs and competitions, the top teams and players in the 1920s and 1930s, club football during and after the war and into the 1950s.  Again, great memorabilia illustrated the history.  For example, there is the only remaining ticket from the very first Cup Final of 1903 between Prague and Leipzig.  It reminds you of the high proportion of Germans living at that time in what is now the Czech Republic and also how basic the game was in those days.  Apparently, they had to delay kick-off until a suitable ball could be found.

I was intrigued to learn that German youngsters used to collect football cards just like their British equivalents. 

It was also quite poignant to see the names and stories of once-great teams that have either declined to lower leagues or fallen by the wayside. Viktoria Berlin, for example, was a founder member of the DFB, won the championship in 1908 and 1911, but now plays in the fourth tier Oberliga Nord. Rot Weiß Essen won the German cup in 1953 and the league in 1955 but now plays at the same level in the Regionalliga West.

The Bundesliga

You then find yourself looking at the five decades of the Bundesliga since its foundation in 1963.  Key events, top players and managers, winners and losers all get a mention.  For each decade there is a dream team nominated by a jury of renowned coaches.

The Bundesliga roundabout

Passing displays about the German and European Cups you arrive at the Bundesliga-Karussel.  This is also multimedia at its best.  Visitors sit on a rotating bank of seats inside a dome.  As you slowly go round,  you follow a 360-degree film showing clips about different aspects of the game.  I could have spent an entire afternoon just going round and round watching different collections.

German Football Museum: Fans memorabilia

The fans

The outside of the carousel is dedicated to football fans.  There are examples not just of how important football is to fans, but also the importance of fans to the game.  Aspects of fan culture – songs, badges, cut-off jackets, Ultras – are covered well, and there are countless examples of how collective action by fans has influenced clubs and the football association.

The man with the whistle

Referees are not forgotten either.  There is a display all about their contribution to the game. Memorabilia included disciplinary reports

Hall of Fame

The Hall of Fame was next: the names and pictures of the great players and managers from the beginning to the present day. If you wanted, there was sound and video footage available.

Time added on

Then it was down to the ground for ‘extra time’.  This involved taking a look at the German team bus and grabbing a snack and a drink at the bistro.  Next to the staircase back to reception, there is display of the names of over 26,000 DFB football clubs, with the motto “Wir sind Fussball” – “We are football”.

German Football Museum: Team bus

When they were young

There was to be one final treat.  I popped down to the basement to collect my bag and coat.  Next to the lockers was a small display of photographs of the world cup winners as young boys. What a motivation for the next generation of footballers, to see the likes of Lahm, Götze and Õzil as they were starting out.

Well worth the entrance fee

This was one of the best visits I have ever made to a museum.  17 euros to get in might seem a bit steep, but the quality of the displays, the superb use of modern technologies and the huge amount of content made it feel well worth it to me.  I could happily have stayed longer, and  I will be back next time I am near Dortmund.

Find out more about German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

German football books

Three new German football books

Thanks to its growing popularity there is no shortage of books out there for anyone who wants to find out a bit more about German football. Here are three recent additions that are well worth a read.

Tor!: The Story of German football

If you read no other book about football in Germany you should read this book by Uli Hesse. This extremely well-researched account takes the reader through the history of German football, from its origins in the late 19th century to the present day. There’s a whole chapter on how German clubs get their names and the story of football unfolds within the context of German history. Hesse describes how in the early days clubs had to fight for respectability in the face of opposition from the gymnastics movement, but how football gathered momentum and became a mass sport in the 20s and 30s. He outlines the horrors of the Nazi regime and war years and their impact on football and then goes on to the ‘Miracle of Bern’ when Germany won the World Cup. He covers the building of dominant sides in the 60’s and 70’s, the TV explosion of the late 80’s, then the nadir of Euro 2000. The book ends with a description of the inexorable rise of German football from 2000 to become the world force it is today.
It is written in a very accessible style, and Hesse makes brilliant use of stories to bring facts to life.  Definitely one of the best Bundesliga books on the market.

Bayern : Creating a global superclub

Honigstein’s latest book presents the history of this remarkable football club from its humble beginnings right up to the present day. As in his previous book, Hesse tells a really good story with lots of fascinating background. I think this book will be of interest not just to Bayern München fans, but also to anyone who would like to find out a bit more about the history of German football.

Das Reboot: How German Football Reinvented Itself and Conquered the World

Raphael Honigstein  speaks and writes knowledgeably, fluently and interestingly about football in German and English.

His latest book charts German football’s return from the wilderness of the late 1990’s, culminating in the glorious victories over Brazil and Argentina in the 2014 World Cup finals.

Matchdays: The Hidden Story of the Bundesliga

Ronald Reng tells the story of the Bundesliga through the life and times of Heinz Höher. His career as a player spanned the years before and after the formation of the Bundesliga. He played for Bayer 04 Leverkusen, Meidericher SV (later renamed MSV Duisburg), FC Twente and VfL Bochum.
As a coach, he worked for VfL Bochum, Schwarz Weiß Essen, MSV Duisburg, Fortuna Düsseldorf and FC Nürnberg as well as teams in Greece and Saudi Arabia.
The reader experiences the history of the Bundesliga from the perspective of someone who lived it. This approach also enables Reng to give great insights into everyday life in modern Germany.
Höher himself is a fascinating and at times tragic figure. The many bitter disappointments in his life story leave the reader in no doubt about the cruelty of modern football and of the narrow line between success and failure.

 

In A Life Too Short: The Tragedy of Robert Enke

Robert Reng was a close friend of Robert Encke, the German goalkeeper who tragically took his own life in 2009. In A Life Too Short: The Tragedy of Robert Enke, Reng describes his friend’s life, casting light on the crushing pressures of professional sport.

The People’s Game : Football, State and Society in East German

This book by Alan McDougal made it to the Guardian’s list of best sports books of 2016. McDougal is history and European studies professor at the University of Guelph. In his book he explains how, although the East German state managed to mould Olympic athletes in its own image, attempts  by the communist dictatorship to use football for political ends failed.

The Miracle of Bern

OK, this is a film not a  book – but it’s the best film I have ever come across about German football. Set in the gloomy post-war years when Germany was still coming to terms with its terrible past and only just recovering from the disasters inflicted on the country National Socialism, it leads up to Germany’s surprising victory in the 1954 World Cup. The film is much more than an intensely emotional and touching story. It shows us what Germany was like in the immediate post-war years and what football was like before the Bundesliga.