Leipzig football is more than Red Bull

by John Alder | Feb 10, 2019 | Bundesliga, Football trips, Travel in Germany

Leipzig football – looking beyond Red Bull

The first thing that comes to mind when you think of Leipzig football is, of course, Red Bull Leipzig. That’s the team that started from scratch in 2009 and has worked its way through the leagues and now plays in the Bundesliga.

But there are actually at least two other very interesting Leipzig clubs that are well worth a visit. And the Leipzig football scene sheds light on several sporting and social issues in Germany.

Lokomotive Leipzig

Lokomotive Leipzig is one of the oldest clubs in Germany and has a story full of heartache and unfulfilled potential. It also has some of the most loyal and passionate fans in the country.

The club can trace its roots back to 1893 and the formation of a club called SC Sportbrüder Leipzig. After a name change to VfB Leipzig, the club was a founder member of the DFB – the German football league – and won the first national championship in 1903. It was then a leading club for the next few years, winning the league in 1906 and 1913 and playing in the 1911 and 1914 finals.

Leipzig lost key players during the First World War and struggled to match its early success in the interwar years, although it did win the cup (then called the Tschammerpokal – now the DFB Pokal) in 1937.

After the war, the victorious allies dissolved most sporting organisations, including VfB Leipzig. Club members got together and re-formed a team which played with limited success under several different names until the creation of a new club – 1 FC Lokomotive Leipzig – in 1966.

This led to a marked improvement in the club’s fortunes. Although Lok never won the league, high finishes and several cup wins (1970, 1973 and 1977) secured appearances in European competitions. They won the UEFA Intertoto Club in 1966.

After German unification in 1990, Lokomotive Leipzig ended up in the 2 Bundesliga. At first, it looked as if the club would survive in a united Germany. It adopted its old name of VfB Leipzig, and a third-place finish in 1993 resulted in promotion to the Bundesliga. However, like most sides from the former East Germany, the club struggled to attract and retain players. Leipzig ended the 1994 season bottom of the league. Relegation that year began an inexorable slide down the divisions, which in turn resulted in increasing financial troubles. By 2001 the club was playing in the fourth division, and in 2004 it went bankrupt and was dissolved.

That’s when the fans intervened to re-establish a club called 1. FC Lokomotive Leipzig. It started in the 11th tier of German football but gradually worked its way up the leagues and in 2011 gained promotion to fourth-tier Regionalliga Nordost. It was relegated in 2014 but then secured promotion back to the Regionalliga in 2017.

Stadium

The Bruno Plache Stadion has a capacity of 6,800. Average attendance last year was 3,123.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 9 euros and 21 euros, depending on location and opposition.

Directions

Take tram 15 from the station towards “Probstheide/Meusdorf” and get off at “Probstheide.”

BSG Chemie Leipzig

Although Betriebssportgemeinschaft Chemie Leipzig was only formed in 1997, it can trace links through predecessor clubs right back to the early days of German football.

In his book “Tor! The story of German Football Uli Hesse describes the bizarre events of 1964. At that time the top two clubs in Leipzig were Lokomotive and Rotation. The Party decided the city only need one top club and established SC Leipzig (it got the Lokomotiv part of the name back in 1966). The best players from both clubs were moved here – and the others were handed on to lowly Chemie Leipzig. Guess which team won the championship. Yes – Chemie Leipzig not only won both games against SC Leipzig but also won the league two points clear of Rostock.

Stadium

The Alfred-Kunze-Sportpark was built in 1920. Although it has a capacity of 18,000, for safety reasons this is limited to 4,999. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 2,688

Tickets

A standing ticket costs 8 euros and seats cost between 11 and 15 euros.

Directions

The number 80 bus towards Thekla will drop you off right outside the ground. Your stop is called Am Sportpark.

You can also get there on tram 7 towards Böhlitz-Ehrenberg. You get off at S-Bahnhof Leutsch and then have a 10-minute walk to the ground.

Leipzig Football – sporting, political and social controversies

The football scene in Leipzig sums up how the sport has developed in Germany in recent years and sheds light on several controversial political and social issues.

Old versus new

First of all, we have the Red Bull Leipzig controversy. For many fans, this epitomises all that is wrong with the modernisation of the game. Here we have a tiny club used to advertise a multi-national company. This appears to go against the 50+1 rule, which states that German clubs should be fan owned. They feel that the club is without tradition and going to the Red Bull Arena is akin to a theatre visit. Others argue that this rule is the main reason why EPL and Spanish clubs regularly outbid German clubs for players. Why should football be played in an intimidating atmosphere in a rundown stadium? What’s wrong with attracting a more diverse set of fans? They also argue that without Red Bull Leipzig – a city of 500,000 – would be denied first-class football.

The harsh financial realities of German unification

Away from the glitter of the Bundesliga there are several loyally-supported lower-league clubs, including Lokomotiv Leipzig and Chemie Leipzig. These fierce rivals came to prominence during the years of the German Democratic Republic. Lok was supported by the state, making it easier to attract and retain the best players. The club did well nationally and in European competitions.

Chemie was founded and run by workers at a local chemical factory. After German unification, both clubs suffered the same fate as most former East German clubs. The best players were lured to the richer clubs in the west of the country. There were no wealthy investors ready to dip into their pockets to help out the local club. Also, the fans did not have as much disposable income as their western compatriots. The result was a slow drift down through the divisions and a constant battle against insolvency. Chemie did indeed go bust – and fans re-formed the current club.

Political Tension and the rise of the far-right

Leipzig has seen its share of political tension in recent years, and right and left-wing groups have often demonstrated and sometimes done battle in the streets.

So it is not surprising that these political tensions sometimes overlap with sport. Even before the fall of the East German regime Lokomotive had issues with hooliganism, and after 1989 this tradition continued. In particular, the club appeared to attract members of far-right groups. Many Chemie fans, on the other hand, have an explicit left-wing, anti-fascist standpoint. This has made local derbies particularly tense and heavily policed affairs. One recent local cup game was referred to in the press as a “Hooligan summit”.

While I was researching for this post I came across a clip on YouTube which sheds light on the Chemie – Lokomotive rivalry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IsPcQQdBHU

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RB Leipzig – A trip planner

by John Alder | Jan 31, 2019 | Football, Travel in Germany

RB Leipzig – A brand new club

Although RB Leipzig began playing in the old Markrandstädt stadium in the Oberliga, plans were already in place to move to the larger and more modern Zentralstadion. After buying the rights to rename it the Red Bull Arena the club moved to its new home in 2010.

The Red Bulls quickly gained promotion into the Regionalliga and then rose through the divisions before finally winning promotion to the Bundesliga at the end of the 2015/16 season.

Controversial from the start

For others, it is a total betrayal of German football’s values. These people consider RB Leipzig to be a marketing tool and believe the owners are ksimply buying success. They think the club is bypassing rules designed to ensure fans retain ownership of their clubs and presents a risk to the values and traditions that make German football so special.

There have been fan boycotts, protests and demonstrations – but the club has continued its steady, inexorable march through the leagues. The fanbase has grown each year, and it looks like it is here to stay.

Tickets for RB Leipzig

Ticket prices vary depending on the opponent. The cheapest start at 20,00 euros and the most expensive cost 70 euros. There is an online shop, and you can also get tickets at the ground. The club website also has a ticket exchange section (Ticketbörse) where you can buy returns.

Getting to Leipzig

There are direct flights from London Stansted to Leipzig/Halle airport. There are regular trains into the city centre.

The other easy way to get to Leipzig is to travel via Berlin which has two international airports.

Berlin-Tegel is to the north-west of the city and Berlin-Schönefeld to the south-east. The two airports run a combined website, which will give you a good idea of departure points.

Getting into town is simple:

• From Tegel, bus 128 will take you to “Kurt-Schumacher-Platz” where you can take the U6 underground into the city centre.

• The S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the city transport system. A taxi will cost about 25 euros.

There are regular trains between Berlin and Leipzig. You can order a ticket with Deutsche Bahn or Loco2.

Getting to the Red Bull Arena

You can walk from the central station to the ground in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, trams 3, 7 and 15 will take you there – your stop is called ‘Sportforum.’

Inside the BayArena

Since 2010 RB Leipzig has played in the Red Bull Arena. It is a thoroughly modern stadium with 42,959 seats and all the amenities you could expect or need.

They operate a cashless payment system inside the ground. You can order a cashless card with you ticket, or pick one up at one of the clearing points in or near the Arena. You load it with cash and then use it like a debit card to buy food and drink. When you leave you can get a repayment of any money still on your card.

Other things to do in Leipzig

There’s plenty of history in Leipzig, but it is also a very modern and vibrant place. You will have no trouble finding things to do before and after the football. Here are three suggestions:

1. Wander around the Altstadt

The old centre of Leipzig is full of carefully restored historic buildings. There are also plenty of shops, cafes and bars.

2. Visit the Stasi Museum

The Stasi was East Germany’s notorious security police force. This museum, which is based in its former Leipzig headquarters, documents how it was used to spy on the entire population and to crush any dissent.

3. Go to the Nikolaikirche

Events at this church contributed significantly to the peaceful overthrow of the East German regime and the eventual reunification of the country. In September 1989 huge numbers people started to gather here to pray for peace. Prayers were then followed by mass demonstrations as people marched through the streets demanding change. The largest gathering consisted of 70,000 people. Although soldiers and security police were on standby to crush these protests, the orders never came, and eventually, the DDR leadership gave in, and eventually the whole system collapsed.

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Introducing FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 24, 2019 | Bundesliga, Football history, Football trips, German History, Travel in Germany

A book about FC Schalke 04

Get your copy now

In 1904 a group of young miners from Gelsenkirchen got together to play football. They had very little money, no kit to wear, no ball to play with. They didn’t even have a pitch to play on. This book tells the story of how the club they formed grew to become Schalke 04, one of the biggest, wealthiest and best-known sporting organisations in the world.
It describes the lives of famous players, takes a look at Schalke’s passionate fans, and explains why the club is so important to its town and region.
There is also plenty of practical information for anyone thinking of coming to the Veltins Arena see a game or wanting to follow Schalke from afar.

Understanding FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 13, 2019 | Football trips, German History, Travel in Germany

FC Schalke 04: A different football experience

Some people think that going to the Veltins Arena to see Schalke 04 is just like any other German footballing experience.

You will have a ticket that did not require a second mortgage to buy. You will sit or stand amongst a passionate, partisan crowd. You will hopefully see some excellent football and you will have a couple of beers and a Bratwurst. In short, you will enjoy a typical Bundesliga game.

I believe that if you are willing to take your time and if you have a little background information, you can get much more from the day. Let me be your guide to a richer Schalke experience and let me help you better understand this club, its fans, history and culture.

A town built on coal

If you can, travel to Gelsenkirchen by train, and take a good look at the industrial and post-industrial landscape around this former mining town. You will probably pass though cities like Duisburg, Essen, Dortmund or Bochum – famous in their day for coal, steel, heavy industry.
A few winding towers indicate where some of the many mines used to be and isolated factory chimneys help you imagine what the skyline must have looked like 100 years ago.
Some large plants remain, but you will mainly see the reminders of what was once Germany’s industrial power house – empty plots of land that were once covered by huge factories, slag heaps converted into walking trails, abandoned railway buildings.

Get there early

Make sure you arrive at Gelsenkirchen station at least four hours before kick-off. Spend a bit of time in the station forecourt where hundreds of fans will have already gathered. Someone will have set up a sound system nearby which is blasting out classic club songs. People will be meeting friends, eating, drinking beer, talking about the game ahead.

A little further from the station you go down a set of steps to catch the 301 tram towards the Veltins Arena. But don’t go all the way there straight away. Make sure you get off at a stop called Schalker Meile.

The Schalker Meile

Schalke was the name of the working class district of Gelsenkirchen where the club was born. Players and fans came from this area of town. This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played. This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn was built. This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated and talked about.

Since those heady days, everything has changed. Thanks to de-industrialisation the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working-class community of old is no more. The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the shiny new Veltins Arena. But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots. They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club. They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and its history do not get forgotten. They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.
And so the project Schalker Meile was born. The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.
Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs. The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club. There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop next door.

A bit further on, you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Schalke 04 fan shop on the Schalker Meile

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’. This is where the players used to drink. A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat. Its now the home of a fan group called ‘ Kuzorra’s grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans. It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch. Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn. Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

On match days you will see hundreds of Schalke fans outside both pubs or just standing and talking ahead of the game. It is not difficult to imagine this street in the 1930s when Schalke were literally unbeatable at home, winning trophy after trophy for over a decade.

Don’t rush to get in the ground

You can get back on the 301 tram at the next stop. This will take you to the stadium.
Get off at the Veltins Arena stop and follow the flow of fans towards to ground. But don’t go thumb_P1020589_1024

inside yet. If you have followed my advice and arrived extra early it won’t be open anyway, but even if it is, follow the pathways round to the left and walk through the training pitches. The fact that these are just open on match days for fans to wander around is remarkable in itself – but just as impressive is what is available for them. At the far side of the pitches there is a fan shop, of course, but also a huge bar with a massive outside area serving beer and sausages. The message from the club is clear – we value and welcome our fans.

thumb_P1020593_1024

Directly opposite the shop there is a wagon used to transport coal donated by a local mine.

thumb_P1020592_1024

Next to it is the Kumpelkiste. This is a collection point for donations of food and clothing to be passed on to people in need. ‘Kumpel’ is slang for pal or workmate. For me the two objects reveal not only a sense of history, but also a feeling of solidarity.

The Schalke Museum

Now make your way back to the stadium and go inside. Your ticket will tell you the best gate to enter by. But don’t go to your seat yet Go and find the Schalke Museum, which opens two hours ahead of kick-off. This is plenty of time to take a look at the club’s history. Even if you don’t speak a word of German, half an hour wandering amongst the displays will give you a feel for Schalke’s roots and go some way to explaining why fans are so passionate and proud. You will learn about the club’s beginnings in 1904 and its early struggle for stability. You find out that Schalke didn’t lose a single home game from 1933 to 1942, were unbeaten in six of those seasons and appeared in 14 out of 18 national finals . There is, of course, plenty of detail about all the silverware the club as gathered. There are pictures of Schalke greats like Ernst Kuzorra and Fritz Szepan. You can enter a ‘sitting room’ packed with memorabilia. TV scree thumb_P1020613_1024

ns show footage of games from the early days until the present. And if you enjoy nothing else in the museum, I guarantee you will be blown away by the view of the stadium from here, and which justifies the 5 euro entrance fee on its own.

Something to eat

Next, I suggest you have a beer and something to eat. Like most German stadiums, prices are really affordable and you can take you drink with you to your seat.

One thing that’s a bit thumb_P1020697_1024 different at Schalke is that you can’t use cash. You have to go to one of the many kiosks and pick up and load a Knappenkarte. It then works just like a debit card – and if you don’t spend all the money on the card you can get it back before you leave.

Refreshed and fed, it’s time to go to your seat and enjoy the crowd. Notice how full the stands are and how much noise the fans are making well before kickoff. Don’t miss the pictures and names of great former players posted high up where everyone can see them.

An emotional moment

I think that what comes next is the most magical part of the Schalke experience. Just before the teams come out the entire crowd stands up to sing a slow, sad song called the Steigerlied (the miner’s song). It almost feels like you are in church. Everyone joins in and the emotion and respect are palpable. This song is a traditional mining song about a miner about to go down to the coalface. It’s been sung here, at other local grounds, and at political meetings for decades and is basically a tribute to the brave men who risked their lives and health every day to bring up the coal which powered German industry. These were the men who founded the club. This was the background of Schalke’s players and fans. To underline the message, black and white footage of miners at work is shown on the big screen. The song starts and ends with the words ‘Glück auf’, which is a traditional miners’ greeting recognised all over Germany. The words mean something like ‘Good luck and a safe return’, but the greeting evokes memories of harder times.
The message is clear : “Schalke might be the twelfth wealthiest football club in the world and play in one of Europe’s most modern stadiums but we have not forgotten our roots.”

The anthem

Then we get the Schalke Anthem : Blau und weiß wie lieb ich dich (blue and white how I love you). Again, everyone joins in noisily. Scarves and flags are waved and the emotion rises yet another notch. You can hear this song for yourself on YouTube.

A crowd in full voice

By now the players are out and the game will begin. Enjoy the sights and sounds of a 61,000 crowd in full voice. Notice the huge standing area behind one of the goals.
In the UK, there are quite often periods of quiet in a game. Crowds tend to shout and sing in response to the action on the pitch. In Germany this is always different – the ultras at the home end, choreographed and directed by people at the front with megaphones, make a noise from start to finish. The difference at Schalke is that there is noise for the entire game from all sides of the ground.

Songs and chants

If Schalke score the crowd will sing
Ein Leben lang
Blau und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
A lifetime long
Blue and white a lifetime long …

You might also hear them singing :
FC Schalke mein verein
Ich steh immer für dich ein
Ob du gewinnst oder verlierst
Ich stehe immer hinter dir
FC Schalke my club
I will always stand up for you
Whether you win or lose
I will always be behind you

Don’t hurry home

Hopefully you will see lots of good football, an exciting game and a few goals. At the end of the game, don’t rush off. There’s a bit of a crush to get back on the tram to town, and the first trains out of Gelsenkirchen can be a bit crowded. So stay in your seat and watch the players come and thank the fans. Notice how many fans are still in the stands.
Why not then hang around the stadium for a while, have something to eat and drink along with the thousands of others who are still there.

Come and see for yourelf

I hope that this short article has inspired you come to the Veltins Arena and enjoy the full Schalke experience in person. I guarantee that you will not just attend an exciting sporting event. You will also witness and celebration of history, community and shared values.

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Going to watch FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 10, 2019 | Bundesliga, Football trips, Travel in Germany

Based in Gelsenkirchen in the middle of Germany’s industrial powerhouse, the Ruhrgebiet, Schalke 04 is one of the biggest, oldest and best-known clubs in the Bundesliga. It is said to be the 12^th richest football club in the world.

The nickname, the Royal Blues, comes from Schalke’s colours – but they were originally known as “die Knappen’, which is a slang word for miners because so many players and fans came from a mining background.

A visit to the Veltins Arena to watch a game is a truly memorable experience.

Tickets for Schalke 04

Schalke 04 games are regularly sold out, so it’s a really good idea to buy tickets before you come to Germany. This will also save you money as your ticket entitles you to free match day travel to and from the ground on local transport.

These are the best ways to get hold of tickets:

Use the online ticket shop. Although everything is in German, the ticket portal is easy to use.
Call the ticket hotline (0039 180 622 1904). There will always be someone who can speak to you in English and advise you on the best place to sit. There is also a ticket standby service where might be able to get hold of a returned ticket.
Send an email to the club explaining what you want (kundenseervice@schalke04.de).

Getting to Gelsenkirchen

Gelsenkirchen is right in the middle of the Ruhrgebiet, which was once Germany’s industrial heartland and is still Europe’s largest metropolis. This makes it very straightforward to get to from outside Germany. It is within easy reach of four airports and belongs to a reliable, cheap and fully integrated regional public transport system.

If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about £100.

Düsseldorf Airport

There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has a station where you can catch a direct train to Gelsenkirchen. It will take about 35 minutes to get there.

Weeze Airport

There are flights here from London Stanstead, London Luton and Edinburgh. Regular shuttle buses take you to Dortmund which is also about 35 minutes by train from Gelsenkirchen.

Cologne Bonn Airport.

There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stanstead, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. It’s a bit further away and the journey is slightly more complicated because you have to change trains. If you change at Düsseldorf the journey will take about two hours.

A more leisurely way to get here would be by train – take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels, change there for Cologne and then continue to Gelsenkirchen. This costs about £150.

If you are not in a hurry, National Express will take you from London to the region by bus for about £40 return. But be prepared for a very long journey!

Gelsenkirchen is in the middle of an integrated public transport system managed by an organisation called VRR. You can use VRR tickets on any regional and local train, tram, underground and bus across the entire network. The VRR website explains in English how it all works.

And remember – on match days your ticket entitles you to free travel to and from the ground across the entire region.

Where to stay in Gelsenkirchen

The big advantage of staying in Gelsenkirchen is that you can enjoy the build-up to the game, don’t need to rush off after the final whistle and you can mix with Schalke fans in the evening. There are plenty of hotels in Gelsenkirchen. Here are a few suggestions:

Ibis Styles Hotel – right opposite the station.
The Ibis Gelsenkirchen is 100 yards from the station and old town.
The Maritim Hotel
The Courtyard by Marriott is within walking distance of the Veltins Arena.
The Arena hotel is right next to the stadium.

For anyone looking for a wider choice of things to do and places to go before and after the football, Dortmund is only 35 minutes away by train. There are hotels there to match every budget. The Dortmund Tourist Information Office provides advice and a booking facility here.

Getting to the Veltins Arena

Getting to the Veltins Arena from the city centre is very straightforward. You go out of the main station, down some steps to the underground and catch tram 302. Your stop is conveniently called ‘Veltins Arena’ and your destination is about five minutes away.

Inside the Veltins Arena

The Veltins Arena is without a doubt one of the finest stadiums in the world.

It opened in 2001 and quickly established itself as a first class entertainment venue. Fans have flocked here to see top music acts like U2, Robbie Wiliiams and Bruce Springstein, sporting events such as the 2010 World Ice Hockey Championships and boxing – as well, of course, as football.

It can accommodate 61,973 football fans. There are 16,307 standing places, giving the club the second largest standing area in the Bundesliga. There is a retractable roof and withdrawable pitch and all seats give a fantastic view of the action. As you would expect, facilities and food outlets are also of a very high standard.

Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the stadium, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff. The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia. There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players. The visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

Eating and drinking

You will not go hungry or thirsty at the Veltins Arena. There are 15 small restaurants, 50 grilling stations and 35 cafes – all connected by a 5km long beer pipe. On a typical match day they will sell 14,000 sausages, 43,000 rolls, 40,000 litres of drink.)

The stadium stands on its own and out of town, so you would think that there would not be much to do before the game. But the club has gone to great lengths to cater for fans who arrive early. There are kiosks selling food and drink on all the walkways to the ground. Beyond the training grounds – which are open to the public – there is a huge fan shop and a bar/restaurant. As a result, you are likely to see thousands of fans in the area two or three hours ahead of kickoff.

There is a cashless payment system throughout the arena. While this is extremely convenient for regular fans and reduces delays when buying food and drink, it can be a bit daunting for the one-off visitor from overseas. Using the system, however, is very straightforward. When you get inside, go to one of the countless kiosks issuing ‘Knappenkarten’. The card is free and you can load on as much money as you are likely to spend. When you want to buy something you hand over your card and then say what you want. They will then take the cost from your card. If you don’t spend all your money you can get a refund before you leave.

A sense of history

Before every game the entire stadium stands and sings along to the miners’ anthem ‘das Steigerlied’. At the same time, black and white footage of mining scenes is shown on the big screen. This moving tribute to those who have gone before will definitely give you goosebumps. The song dates back to the 16th century and is sung in mining areas all over Germany, as well as at political rallies. It’s about miners preparing for a long hard shift and hoping to get back to the surface safely. It starts and ends with the traditional miners’ greeting of ‘Glück auf’.

After the game

Going home is not quite a simple as arriving. Although extra trams and buses are laid on, moving 60,000 people is time-consuming and so it can take you a while to get back to the town centre. Similarly, Gelsenkirchen station and departing trains can be really crowded for a while after games.

My advice would be not to rush home. If you can, stay for a drink or two after the game. Stop off for something to eat in the city centre before catching your train.

Three things to do in Gelsenkirchen

1. Walk along the Schalker Meile

Schalke 04 was one of the first truly working class football clubs. Established in the early years of the 20th century, its players and fans came from the same town – Gelsenkirchen – and many from the Schalke district itself. This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played. This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn – was built. This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated.

Since those heady days, everything has changed. Thanks to de-industrialisation, the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working class community of old is no more. The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the Veltins Arena. But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots. They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club. They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and it’s history do not get forgotten. They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.

And so the project Schalker Meile was born. The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.

Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs. The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club. There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop nearby.

A bit further up you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974 when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’. This is where the players used to drink. A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat. It’s now the home of a fan group called ‘Kuzorras grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans. It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch. Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally, you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn. Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

If you want to see this for yourself take the 301 tram and get off at the Schalker Meile stop.

This is the same tram that will take you to the Veltins Arena, and on match days many fans stop off there for a drink and to meet friends before continuing to the game.

On match days the club puts on a bus tour to the area, including a visit to the old stadium. A ticket will set you back 120 euros, but as well as the tour you get a meal, entrance to the Schalke museum and VIP seats at the stadium.

2. Visit the Schalke Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the Veltins Arena, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff and is otherwise open all day. The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia. There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players.

However, the visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

3. Wander around the city centre

If you or someone with you likes shopping, you will find everything you need a few minutes from the main station.

Find out more about Schalke 04 and German football

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Going to watch Bayer 04 Leverkusen

by John Alder | Jan 9, 2019 | Bundesliga, Football trips, Travel in Germany

The perfect introduction to German football

A visit to the BayArena to watch Bayer 04 Leverkusen is the perfect starting point for people new to Germany and its football culture:

It is close to two major airports, next to a motorway and easy to reach by public transport.
It has a spectacular, modern stadium which is designed to bring every spectator close to the action and to maximise the atmosphere.
The club has one of the most family-friendly set-ups in the Bundesliga.
The team plays an exciting and highly entertaining brand of football.

Tickets

The simplest way to get tickets is to call the club’s ticket hotline (0049 214 5000 1904). There is always someone there who can speak English and who can advise you on the best places to sit. You could also use the Online Shop. This way you can choose exactly where to sit and you can use the Print@Home facility to print your ticket before you leave.

Getting to Leverkusen

Leverkusen is between Du?sseldorf and Cologne and you can get there easily and quickly by train from either city. For example, the journey from Du?sseldorf with the regional train (RE1 or RE5 ) takes about 15 minutes and there were at least three trains an hour to choose from.

Flights

If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about £100.

Düsseldorf Airport

There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stansted, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has a station where you can catch a train to Leverkusen Mitte. The journey will take 30 minutes.

Cologne Bonn Airport

There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stansted, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. Take a train to Köln Deutz and then change for Leverkusen Mitte.

If you are not in a hurry

A more leisurely way to get here would be by train – take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels, change there for Cologne and then continue to Leverkusen. This costs about £150.

If you have even more time, National Express will take you from London to the region by bus for about £40 return. But be prepared for a very long journey.

Find out more about travel in Germany here.

Easy to find

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Getting to the BayArena is simplicity itself. You just follow the signs at the station for the Sportpark.

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Then you walk through a lovely park, following the signs for the BayArena, which will appear after about 15 minutes in the trees on your left.

A great place to watch football

Extensive modernisation and refurbishment in 2007 have turned the BayArena into one to the most attractive, comfortable and fan-friendly venues you are ever likely to visit. With a maximum capacity of 30,000, there are enough fans to generate a sense of occasion without it being overwhelming – and the closeness of all seats to the action makes sure everyone gets a good view and maximises the atmosphere.
Inside the stadium, there are all the usual food and drink outlets, a club shop, a creche and free WiFi. If you download the Live-App you can access live, real-time data about the game.

Bayer 04 Leverkusen - inside the BayArena

Visitors welcome

Bayer 04 Leverkusen has an open and welcoming ethos. Signs are in English as well as German and teams of helpers are on hand to offer advice. The club has decorated the barriers dividing home and away fans to recognise the contribution visitors make to a good game.

“No game is exciting without away fans.”

Bayer 04 Leverkusen - Kiosk inside the BayArena

The BayArena Card

The only possible complication is that you can’t use cash inside the ground. Instead, you need to get a BayArena card from one of the kiosks once you arrive. You pay a 10 euro deposit and then put as much money as you want onto the card, which you then use for every purchase.
At the end of the game, you go back to the kiosk to get your deposit and any unspent money back.

Where to stay in Leverkusen

Leverkusen is so easy to get to from both Cologne and Du?sseldorf, so you might want to base yourself in one of these fine cities and do a spot of sightseeing, shopping or dining out before and after the football.

The Lindner is a 200 room hotel connected to the BayArena. A room will set you back about 125 euros per night. There are, however, cheaper alternatives.

There are, however, cheaper alternatives.

Hotel Ibis (from 50 euros per room)
Hotel am Stadion (a single room from about 29 euros and a double from about 80 euros)
Haus Fu?ck (a single room from about euros and a double room about 60 euros)
You can, of course, get more information at the Leverkusen Tourist Information website.

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Books to help you make the most of your German football trip

by John Alder | Dec 3, 2018 | Bundesliga, Football history, German football books

These books will help you find out more about German football and make the most of your visit.

German Football Books: Discovering German football

Are you planning a football trip to Germany?

This short guide will help you plan your trip and decide which clubs to visit. There is also key information on every club in the top three divisions as well as links to the best books, websites, blogs and podcasts.

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German Football Books: The Football Tourist's Guide to the Ruhrgebiet

Bordered by the rivers Rhine, Ruhr and Lippe the Ruhrgebiet is one of Germany’s ‘hidden gems’. A vibrant, exciting and thoroughly modern metropolis, it is steeped in history and tradition.

For over 100 years it has also been the beating heart of German football.

This guidebook introduces its major cities and towns, the history, culture and traditions of its people and its football clubs. There is advice on how to plan a visit and where to find out more.

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German Football Books: Borussia Moenchengladbach

Borussia Mönchengladbach : an introduction sets out to share the history, tradition, triumphs and disappointments of this great club with the English-speaking world. The book tells the story of Borussia from its foundation in 1900 to the present day. As well as biographies of former players and managers and famous anecdotes, there is a wealth of background information for English speakers considering a visit to Germany or wanting to follow the club from afar.

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German Football Books: Bayer 04 Leverkusen

Bayer 04 Leverkusen is another big club with a rich and proud history. Founded in 1904 by employees of a local factory it has grown to become one of the most successful clubs in Germany.

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This short book tells the story of Fortuna Düsseldorf – one of Germany’s oldest and best-known football clubs. As well as describing the history, triumphs and disappointments of this historic club it also tells the life-stories of its best-known players and coaches.
It is also packed with practical information to help football fans plan a trip to Düsseldorf and get the most out of their time in the city and its region.

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Are you planning a football trip to Germany?

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Going to watch VfL Osnabrück

by John Alder | Nov 27, 2018 | 3 Liga, Football trips

VfL Osnabrück: A traditional club, a proper ground and an electric atmosphere

Fans of VfL Osnabrück waving flags before a match

Osnabrück is in the northwest of Germany, not far from the border with the Netherlands. It is 60 miles to the west of Hannover and about 80 miles north of Dortmund. This historic city of 170,000 inhabitants has a lovely old town, a fully pedestrianised centre and is surrounded by beautiful countryside. And the Stadion an der Bremer Brücke, home to VfL Osnabrück, is one of the best places to experience German football beyond the Bundesliga.

The club’s full name is Verein für Leibesübungen von 1899 e.V. Osnabrück. Its story started in 1899 when a number of “wild” clubs came together to become Fußball Club 1899 Osnabrück. After a complicated series of mergers, splits and name changes, the current name first appeared in 1925.

After the war, Osnabrück was placed in Oberliga Nord where it did well in a league which also contained Hamburger SV, Werder Bremen, and FC St Pauli. When the Bundesliga was formed in 1963, VfL Osnabrück joined the second tier Regionalliga Nord and then the 2. Bundesliga. Despite coming close on several occasions, the club was never able to gain promotion to the Bundesliga.

In 2009 VfL Osnabrück was relegated to the 3. Liga where it has remained for the last nine seasons. It has a large, loyal and hugely passionate fanbase. Average attendance so far this season is over 10,000.

Tickets

There is an online shop and you can also order tickets by phone (49180301899) and at the Tourist Information Office on Bierstraße in the town centre. There are two Fan Shops – one at the stadium and one on Krahnstraße. They also sell tickets. A standing ticket costs 11 and a seat between 25 and 29 euros.

Getting to Osnabrück

From Hannover

There are direct flights to Hannover airport from London Heathrow, Stansted and City, Birmingham, and Manchester airports. A direct flight will cost about £150 return and take about 90 minutes. The S5 train (S-Bahn) will take you from the airport (Terminal C) to the city centre in 18 minutes. Trains run every 30 minutes throughout the day.

There are regular trains to Osnabrück from Hannover and the journey will take just over an hour. The cheapest way to travel is to get a Niedersachsen-Ticket, which costs 23 euros for one person and an extra four euros for each additional traveller up to five. You can use it anywhere in Lower Saxony and to the other places on this map. It is valid on regional trains, buses, trams and underground – but not on IC of EC trains.

From Düsseldorf

There are flights to Düsseldorf airport from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has its own station where you can catch a train to Osnabrück. If you want to spend a bit of time in Düsseldorf first, the S1 train will transport you from the terminal to Düsseldorf central station in about ten minutes.

It will take you about two and a half hours to get to Osnabrück from Düssdeldorf, with one change. Plan your journey on the VRR website.

There are also direct InterCity trains to and from Osnabrück. You get there a bit sooner but pay a bit more. If you decide to travel this way you can book in advance either with Loco2 or Deutsche Bahn.

If you want to find out more about travel in Germany take a look at this article: Getting there: travel in Germany.

Getting to the ground

Bus numbers 91, 92, 31, 32, 33, 81, 82 will all take you from the station to the Bremer Brücke.

You can also get there on foot in about 30 minutes. Turn right when you come out of the station and head towards Eisenbahnstrasse. Almost straight away you come to some steps on your right which will take you to a footbridge over the railway lines. On the other side go straight ahead onto An der Humboldsbrücke until you drop down to Buersche Strasse. Cross this road and climb some steps into Humboldtstraße. Follow this road until you reach Bohmter Straße. Turn right and go straight ahead. You will soon see the ground on your right.

Inside the Stadion an der Bremer Brücke

The Bremer Brücke first opened in 1931, but it has been refurbished a number of times and thanks to a recent expansion now has a capacity of 16,667 with 10,475 standing places. Because it has been refurbished rather than rebuilt, it feels like a ‘proper’ football ground.

You are close to the action wherever you choose to stand or sit and you get a good view from all corners of the stadium. The hardcore fans stand behind the goal in the Ostkurve, but there is singing and chanting from all sides of the ground.

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Making the most of your football trip: Starting from Berlin

by John Alder | Oct 17, 2018 | Berlin football, Football trips, Travel in Germany

Why plan a football trip starting from Berlin?

Berlin is one of the most exciting cities in Europe. As you would expect of the capital city of Europe’s most prosperous country, it is full of shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and nightclubs. At every turn, you come across historic buildings and famous street names.

And, of course, Berlin is the perfect base for a football visit.

Enough for a weekend of football

There are enough clubs in Berlin for you to fill an entire weekend without even leaving the city.

Visit Hertha Berlin for the excitement and drama of a top Bundesliga fixture in one of Europe’s biggest stadiums.

The Stadion an der alten Försterei, home to Union Berlin, is one of the most atmospheric grounds you will ever come across.

To experience Berlin football like a local you should take a look at fourth division sides BFC Dynamo Berlin, Berliner AK 07, Viktoria 1889 Berlin and Tennis Berlin.

Much to explore beyond Berlin as well

If you are prepared to travel there are several fascinating clubs within easy reach.

Bundesliga clubs

RB Leipzig

2. Bundesliga clubs

3. Liga clubs

First a few practical details

Getting to Berlin

Plane

Berlin has two international airports.

Berlin-Tegel is to the north-west of the city and Berlin-Schönefeld to the south-east. The two airports run a combined website, which will give you a good idea of where you can fly from.

Getting into town is simple:

From Tegel, bus 128 will take you to “Kurt-Schumacher-Platz” where you can take the U6 underground into the city centre. he S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the wider city transport system. A taxi will cost about 25 euros.
The S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the wider city transport system. A taxi will cost about 40 euros.

Train

You can get to Berlin by train from most major German cities. You need to be aware, however, that it will be a long journey from the west of the country.

Getting around in Berlin

Berlin has a superb public transport system, and this is definitely the best way to get around. Buses, local trains, trams and underground are all integrated into one network where you can use the same ticket.

A day ticket for one person costs 7 euros, and for 19.90 euros up to five people can travel on a group day ticket.

There is an excellent section on the city website, which shows routes and explains in English how the ticketing system works.

Save money with the Berlin WelcomeCard

Many visitors buy the Berlin WelcomeCard, which entitles you to free use public transport in the city centre, reduced entrance into many tourist attractions and special offers in a range of restaurants and shops.

Getting around the region

If you decide to visit clubs beyond Berlin you will probably need to travel by train. You can plan trips and order e-tickets at the Deutsche Bahn website.

Another very helpful place to organise your travel is Loco2.

Save money with the Berlin-Brandenburg ticket

Berlin is in the middle of the region of Brandenburg. Look out for the Berlin-Brandenburg rail ticket. This costs 29 euros for a group of up to 5 travellers. It entitles you to free travel for a day on RE, RB, S and RS trains all over the region. You can also use it on public transport.

The clubs you could visit

Bundesliga clubs

Hertha Berlin

Hertha Berlin was formed in 1892. Its full name is Hertha Berliner Sport-Club von 1892. The club was one of the founder members of the Deutscher Fussball Bund (DFB), which was formed in 1900, and of the Bundesliga, which was founded in 1963.

Stadium

Since 1963 Hertha have played in the Olympiastadion, which was originally built for the 1936 Olympics.
It has the largest permanent seating capacity in Germany (74,475) and is the second largest stadium in the country. (The largest is Dortmund’s Signal Iduna Park)
Despite its age, the stadium has had several major renovations and now has a partial roof.
The German national team plays here and it hosted six matches in the 2006 world cup. It is also used for cup finals, including the 2015 Champions League final.
There is a cashless payment system inside the ground: you buy a card which is charged with 10 euros and use it to buy food and drink. If you need more you can top it up at machines and if you don’t spend it all you can get a refund after the game.

Tickets

There is an online ticket shop.
You can also order tickets by phone (+49 (0)1806 – 51 53 01) or email via a contact form on the website.

Directions

The club website has really clear and simple directions (in English).
You can get all the way to the stadium by underground (U2), train (S5) and bus (M49 and 218)

Website

https://www.herthabsc.de/en/

RBLeipzig

In 2008 energy drink manufacturer Red Bull purchased the playing rights of SSV Markranstädt, a little known fifth division club close to Leipzig. This was the first step in establishing a brand new football club called Rasenballsport Leipzig (RB Leipzig) in May 2009. This new club, formally launched in May 2009, had the ambition of gaining promotion to the Bundesliga within eight years.
Although RB Leipzig began playing in the old Markrandstädt stadium in the Oberliga, plans were already in place to build a new stadium in Leipzig.
This was the beginning of a remarkable story. The Red Bulls quickly gained promotion into the Regionalliga and then rose through the divisions before finally gaining promotion to the Bundesliga at the end of the 2015/16 season.

It is an understatement to say that RB Leipzig is a controversial club. For some, it is a modern success story. They argue that astute management on and off the pitch, an exciting, an entertaining brand of football and first-class youth academy make it the most likely club to eventually break the dominance of Bayern München.
For others, it is a total betrayal of German football’s values. These people consider RB Leipzig to be a marketing tool and believe the owners are simply buying success. They believe the club is bypassing rules designed to ensure fans retain ownership of their clubs and presents a risk to the values and traditions that make German football so special.
There have been fan boycotts, protests and demonstrations – but the club has continued its steady, inexorable march through the leagues. The fanbase has grown each year and it looks like it is here to stay.

Stadium

Since 2010 RB Leipzig has played in the Red Bull Arena. It is a thoroughly modern stadium with 42,959 seats and all the amenities you could expect or need.

Tickets

Ticket prices vary depending on the opponent. The cheapest start at 20,00 euros and the most expensive cost 70 euros. There is an online shop, and you can also get tickets at the ground.

Directions

You can get to Leipzig by train from Berlin in about 75 to 90 minutes. But it’s not cheap. If you book in advance (on Loco2, for example – (https://loco2.com/en) a return ticket will cost 39.80 euros.

You can walk from the main station to the ground in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, trams 3, 7, 15 will take you there – your stop is called ‘Sportforum’

2 Bundesliga

You can enjoy exciting games and have great experiences in the 2 Bundesliga – the second tier of German football. The crowds might be a bit smaller than in the top tier, but the atmosphere will be just as thrilling. Tickets are cheaper and much easier to get hold of. And you will get to visit some interesting and unusual places.

Union Berlin

The other big club in Berlin is 1 FC Union Berlin, which can trace its roots back to 1906. Under its first name of SC Union 06 Oberschöneweide, it was one of the top German teams throughout the early years of the 20th century.
After the war, all sporting organisations were dissolved, but the club reformed as SG Oberschöneweide in 1945.

Its history through the Cold War period (1945 to 1989) mirrored the split in the country. There was a team called Sport-Club Union 06 Berlin in the Western half of the city and a team called Union Oberschöneweide in the East of the city. This team went through a number of name changes, before emerging as 1 FC Union Berlin in 1966.
After German reunification in 1990, the club did well on the field but suffered from massive financial problems.
Success in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s was followed by a decline through the leagues and by 2005 they found themselves in the fourth tier of German football.
Since 2008 Union Berlin’s fortuned have improved and they now play in the 2 Bundesliga.

Fans

Union Berlin fans are renowned for their passionate support for their club and the stadium is famous for its atmosphere
In 2008 they completely renovated the stadium themselves working 140,000 hours to create a wonderful football-only stadium. Although it is big enough to hold 21,717 spectators, there are only 3807 seats.
During the 2014 world cup, fans brought sofas to the ground to create a ‘living room’ where they watched games on a big screen.
One of Union’s most famous fans is the singer Nina Hagen whose song ‘Eiserne Union’ (Iron Union) is the club anthem.

Stadium

The stadium is called Stadion an der alten Försterei, which means Stadium at the Old Forester’s House. Because it is built purely for football the fans are very close to the pitch. This, the high number of standing places and the passion of the Union fans leads to a fantastic atmosphere.

Tickets

You can expect to pay between 11 and 13 euros for standing ticket. There is an online ticket shop. The club website has a long list of places in town which sell tickets – and of course, you can get them at the ticket office at the stadium (open from 11- 6 Monday to Friday 11 – 8 on Thursdays and on match days)

Directions

The easiest way to get to the ground is by public transport.
First of all, you need to get to Ostkreuz station (S5 or S7 depending on where you start from)
Then you get the S3 towards Erkner. You get off at Köpenick – and then it’s a fifteen-minute walk.

Website

https://www.fc-union-berlin.de/en/

Dynamo Dresden

The beautiful city of Dresden in 120 miles to the south of Berlin.

It was almost completely flattened by intense bombing raids in the final stages of World War 2. It has been painstakingly and expensively restored, particularly since German reunification in 1991, and is now one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, worth a visit in its own right. Dresden is also home to Dynamo Dresden.

Although football was played in Dresden throughout the 20th century, SG Dynamo Dresden was established in 1954. During the 1970s and 1980s, the club was one of the dominant teams in East Germany, winning the league seven times and the cup six times. Dynamo also competed frequently in Europe, progressing as far as the semi-final of the UEFA Cup in 1989. After reunification Dresden joined the Bundesliga, and although the club maintained first division status for four years, like many former GDR teams it struggled financially and on the pitch. Many of the best players moved west, attracted by bigger clubs and higher pay. As a result, Dynamo dropped through the divisions and into the amateur Regionalliga in 1995. And the fall continued, and by 2000 the club had fallen as far as the fourth division.

Since then the club’s fortunes have improved and they have successfully fought their way back as far as the 2 Bundesliga.

Fans

Despite mixed fortunes on the pitch, Dynamo Dresden has one of the most loyal and fanatical fan bases in the country. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 28,071.

Stadium

The Rudolph-Harbig-Stadion has a capacity of 32,066, with 9,000 standing places. The 25,000 fans who typically come to a game and the particular design of the stadium make it one of the loudest and most atmospheric grounds in Germany.

Tickets

You can buy tickets at the online shop. They cost between 14 euros to stand and 37 euros for the most expensive seats.

Directions

The EuroCity will get you from Berlin to Dresden in just under two hours. If you book in advance you can pay as little as 19.90 each way (plus 6 euros if you want to reserve a seat)

The ground is 20 minutes walk from the central station. You can also get there by public transport, but how you travel to the ground is determined by the entrance on your ticket. If you are entering via Lennestraße you take the number 10 or 13 tram and get off at “Großer Garten”, or number 9 or 11 trams and get off at “Lenneplatz”. If you are entering via Blüherstraße you should take the number 1, 2, 4, or 12 tram and get off at “Deutsches Hygienemuseum”.

Website

http://www.dynamo-dresden.de/saison.html

1 FC Magdeburg

Magdeburg is about 95 miles to the west of Berlin. It is home to 1 FC Magdeburg, which was founded in 1965. Alongside Dynamo Dresden Magdeburg was one of the top teams in the former East Germany, playing all but one season in the top division. It won the league three times and the cup seven times and was the only East German club to win the UEFA Cup in 1973. After 1991 Magdeburg struggled to adapt to life in a united Germany and for a time the club dropped out of the professional leagues altogether. In recent years, however, Magdeburg have fought their way back. They ended the 2017/18 season as 3. Liga champions and currently play in 2 Bundesliga.

Stadium

The MDCC-Arena, which opened in 2006, has 25,500 places. There are 21,900 seats and 3,600 standing places.

Fans

The club has a large and loyal fanbase. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 18,231 – by far the best in the league – and if you come to watch a game you will enjoy a great atmosphere.

Tickets

Apart from high profile games (Köln, Hamburg, Dresden, Union Berlin), you should be able to get a ticket on the day. You can order tickets in advance at the Online Ticket Shop or by phone (+49(0)1806991160). There is also a contact form on the club website. Prices range from 14.50 euros to 25.50 euros.

Directions

The direct train from Berlin to Magdeburg takes 1 hour 40 minutes. You then catch the number 6 tram from the station and get off at “Brandenburger Straße”.

Website

http://www.fc-magdeburg.de/

3. Liga

Whenever I am in Germany, I try to take in at least one 3. Liga game before or after a Bundesliga encounter. It’s a very different experience, but I have never been disappointed.

The crowds are smaller. This makes it easier to get a ticket. For most games at most clubs, you can pay on the day. The smaller scale means stewards and officials are more relaxed, helpful and welcoming. And of course, you don’t have to wait for as long for food and drink or waste half-time queuing for the toilets. Not having to use public transport with 50,000 others makes arriving and leaving much simpler.

Many 3. Liga grounds are either new or recently refurbished, so facilities are usually excellent. Food and drink is cheaper and often of better quality than in bigger outfits. Most stadiums have more standing places and you feel much more involved.

These clubs are within range of Berlin.

Carl Zeiss Jena

About 150 miles south-west of Berlin is the city of Jena, home to 3. Liga club Carl Zeiss Jena. Founded in 1903 by workers at the Carl Zeiss optics factory, this is one of Germany’s oldest clubs. It achieved considerable success at a local and regional level in the first half of the 20th century.

After the war, the club became one of the top teams in East Germany, winning the DDR Championship three times and the Cup four times. In 1981Jena reached the final of the of the European Cup Winners’ Cup.

After German reunification, Jena was placed in the 2 Bundesliga. Despite finishing second in 1992, the club struggled both on and off the pitch – often dropping into the third and fourth divisions, and at times coming close to bankruptcy.

Carl Zeiss Jena won promotion back into the 3. Liga in 2017, beating Viktoria Köln in the relegation playoffs.

Stadium

The Ernst-Abbe-Sportfeld has a capacity of 12,990, with 6,540 seats. The stadium was built in 1922 and is named after a local entrepreneur. It has undergone several improvements over the years, the most recent being the construction of a new stand in 1997.

Tickets

Standing places cost between 10 and 12 euros and seats cost between 24 and 28 euros, depending on the opposition. You can buy your tickets at the club, at the online ticket shop (https://www.etix.com/ticket/v/457/fc-carl-zeiss-jena?cobrand=jena). Average attendance in 2017/18 was 5,417, so unless they are playing local rivals you should be able to get tickets on the day or at one of several outlets in town. For more details see the club website.

Directions

You can get to Jena by train from Berlin in just under three hours. You need to change at Leipzig. If you book in advance tickets will cost about55 euros, including seat reservations. When you arrive at Jena Saal station you should walk towards the town centre and catch the 1, 4 or 35 tram. This will take you directly to the stadium.

Hallescher FC

Halle is just over 100 miles to the south west of Berlin. There are regular Inter-City-Express trains from Berlin and the journey will take just over an hour. If you book in advance tickets will cost about £40, including seat reservations. The local club, Hallescher FC, can trace its roots right back to the beginning of the last century, and the founding of a football club called Hallescher Fussball-Club Wacker 1900. This club was very successful in the 1910s 1920s and 1930s.

Along with all German football clubs, Wacker was dissolved after the war but by 1949 a new club – ZSG Union Halle had emerged and became one of the founder members of the East German Oberliga. It was to undergo several name changes in the coming years before settling on FC Chemie Halle (the name still used by many supporters).

After German reunification in 1990, the club joined the 2 Bundesliga as Hallescher FC. Unfortunately, like many East German sides, Halle lost several of its best players to wealthier West German clubs and struggled in the newly merged league system. Relegation at the end of the first season marked the start of a decline through the leagues. By 1995 Hallescher FC found reached the fifth tier of German football.

Since then the club’s fortunes have improved steadily and it was promoted to the 3 Liga in 2012, where it has remained for the last five years.

Stadium

The Erdgas Sportpark opened in 2011. It has a capacity of 15,057, with 6,155 seats and 8,850 standing places

Tickets

A standing ticket costs between 9 and 11 and a seat between 12 and 23 euros. There is an online ticket shop, and you can also order tickets by phone(49180651 53 62 or email (kundenservice-hallescher-fc@eventim.de).

Directions

Any tram going from “Markt” towards “Rennischer Platz” will take you to the stadium. Get out at Böllberger Weg” or “Kantstraße”.

Website

http://www.hallescherfc.de/

Energie Cottbus

Cottbus is about 80 miles from Berlin, not far from the border with Poland. The local club, Energie Cottbus was founded in 1963, but the club has roots right back to a team founded by miners in 1919.

The club began life after German reunification in the 3. Liga. Relegation after six seasons began a 17-year stint between 1997 and 2014 of floating between the second and first divisions. Relegation in 2014 to the 3. Liga was followed by a further relegation in 2016 to the Regionalliga Nordost. Two years later they gained promotion back to the third division.

Stadium

The club describes Stadion der Freundschaft – Friendship Stadium – as an ‘atmospheric jewel with English flair’. I am not sure exactly what they mean, but it is a comfortable and thoroughly modern ground with a capacity 22,528, including 10,945 seats. It is designed to bring fans as close as possible to the action on the pitch and to make sure everyone gets a good view.

Tickets

You can get tickets from the Online Shop (https://www.etix.com/ticket/v/2763/fc-energie-cottbus-stadion-der-freundschaft?cobrand=cottbus) for between 11 and 21 euros.

Directions

You can travel from Berlin to Cottbus by regional train. A ticket will cost 14.50 euros each way and the journey will take just under 90 minutes.

You can walk to the ground from the main station in about 10 minutes, following Vetschauer Straße and Görlitzer Gasse until you can see the floodlights.

Regionalliga Nordost

The fourth tier of German football is divided into regional leagues (Regionalligen). The reserve squads of Bundesliga teams are allowed to compete at this level but there are also lots of smaller clubs.

Crowds are definitely smaller, but you will get to experience German football from a local perspective. These are the Regionalliga clubs in Berlin.

BFC Dynamo Berlin

The club was founded in the 1950s as Dynamo Berlin and had strong links to the East German security police (the hated Stasi) and their boss Erich Mielke. This connection ensured the club always got the best players and many believed that referees were ‘persuaded’ to treat them favourably. As a result, the club enjoyed considerable success in the 1970s and 1980s. It won the league ten times and the DDR Cup 3 times and played 60 games in European competitions. Dynamo players were regularly picked to play for the East German national side. But it was the also most unpopular team in the DDR and booing Dynamo was a relatively safe way to express anger against the communist regime. After reunification, a name change to FC Berlin did little to improve the club’s image or popularity. In 1999 members voted to change the name back to BFC Dynamo Berlin, hoping this would remind people of past triumphs and bring back good times. Unfortunately, beset by financial troubles the club has struggled to remain in business, never mind thrive, and has floated between the fourth and fifth tiers of German football.

Fans

For a time in the 1990s Dynamo fans enjoyed the dubious reputation of having the worst hooligans in Germany in their midst, and the club became a magnet for right-wing extremists. Things have calmed down greatly in recent years.

Stadium

BFC Dynamo play at the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark, which is to the north of the city. It has the capacity to fit in 19,708 fans, but attendance is rarely above 2,000. If the weather looks doubtful, make sure you have protection against the rain as there is no roofing.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 12 and 18 euros. You will be able to pay at the gate.

Directions

The M10 tram stops directly outside the ground.You can also catch the U8 underground train to Bernauer Straße and walk for five minutes.

Viktoria 1889 Berlin

Viktoria Berlin was formed in 2013, following the merger of BFC Viktoria 1889 and Lichterfelder FC Berlin.

Stadium

The club plays at the Stadion Lichterfelde, which has a capacity of 4,300, with 1,800 seats (800 covered). Average attendance in 2017/18 was 469.

Directions

The simplest way to get to the ground is to take a regional train (RE3, RE4 or RE5) to Lichterfelde Ost station and walk. Leave by the Jungfernstieg exit. Turn right and walk 500 meters to Boothstraße. Then go 650 meters to Ostpreußendamm and then turn right. The walk will take about 15 minutes.

Berliner AK

Berliner AK was founded in 1906 in the working class district of Wedding. Since then the club has undergone several mergers and name changes, before joining forces with ethnically Turkish sides and adopting the name Berlin Ankaraspor Kulübü 07. This club had strong links with Ankoraspor, a side in the Turkish first division, and the idea was that it would be a way of spotting and developing talent. Unfortunately, the scheme failed and the club almost went out of business – but not before the older members left and the traditional colours of red and white were changed to blue and white (the colours of Ankoraspor). Then the Turkish side withdrew support and the club came close to going under. Fortunately, it was able to stabilise and re-group and Berliner AK won promotion to Regionalliga Nordost in 2012. Earlier the same year the club entered the record books by beating Bundesliga side Hoffenheim 4:0 in the first round of the cup – the biggest ever cup victory over a Bundesliga club by a non-league side.

Stadium

BAK 07 play at the Poststadion. This venerable stadium was built between 1926 and 1929 and in the 1930s was one of the most important football venues in Germany – the scene of dramatic internationals and big championship games. For example, in 1930 Germany came from behind to draw 3:3 against England. In 1936 Germany lost 2:0 to Norway in front of 55,000 fans, including Adolf Hitler. Germany’s subsequent elimination from the Olympic games led to the dismissal of coach Otto Nerz and the appointment of Sepp Herberger – who was to lead Germany to World Cup victory in 1954. Because of its illustrious history, the stadium enjoys listed building status.

Today it has a capacity of 10,000. There are 2,500 seats, almost all of which are covered. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 431.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 8 and 10 euros.

Directions

The stadium is a ten minutes walk from Berlin’s central station.

Regionalliga Nordost

Tennis Berlin

Tennis Berlin is one of the most intriguing clubs I have come across. Its roots go right back to 1902 and its first name was Berliner-Tennis und Ping-Pong Gesellschaft Borussia. At that time lots of sports clubs considered in patriotic to include the word Borussia, which is a Latin version of Prussia, in their name. A year later the club added football to the other sports offered and it was soon a keen rival to that other venerable Berlin club, Hertha BSC. After a name change to Berliner Tennis Club Borussia in 1913 the club continued to do well at local and regional level.

Although Tennis Berlin – nicknamed TeBe – established itself as Berlin’s top side in the 1950s, the club did not perform well enough to join the Bundesliga in 1963. It remained in the second division for all but two years of the 1960s and 1970s. TeBe then dropped down a league in the 1980s.

Like many clubs in Berlin TeBe has frequently been plagued by financial problems and at time struggled to stay in business. Towards the end of the 1990s a new sponsor pumped money into the club, enabling the purchase of more expensive players and funding a brief return to the 2 Bundesliga. Sadly this was not a long term recipe for success and the club went bankrupt in 2000. This resulted in relegation to the third tier and the next year TeBe fell to the fourth division.

The club took on its current name – Tennis Borussia Berlin – in 2000 and has remained in the lower divisions since then. The club currently plays in 5th tier Oberliga Nord and finished second in 2017-18.

Fans

TeBe fans are special. Despite (or perhaps because of) the roller-coaster journey of recent years, they are exceptionally loyal and passionate. They are closely involved in the running of the club. For example, fans produce the match day programme and choose the music for the pre-match entertainment.

The club website proudly describes fans’ “continued appreciation of Jewish traditions and active opposition to anti-semitism, racism and homophobia.”

Tennis Borussia have fans right across Germany and beyond and if you do decide to come to the Mommsenstadion you will join a surprisingly large crowd for this level of football.

Stadium

The Mommsenstadion has a capacity of 11,500, with 1,800 covered seats.

Directions

Take the S3 or S9 train towards Spandau and get out at Messe Süd. It’s then a short walk to the ground.

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Making the most of your football trip: Starting from Hannover

by John Alder | Sep 19, 2018 | Football trips, Travel in Germany

Football fixtures are played right across the weekend and into Monday in Germany. So if you time your visit well and base yourself in the right place you could see at least three games over a long weekend. And if you have chosen wisely you will also find plenty of other things to keep you busy and entertained as well as watch football.

It all comes down to choosing the right base. It should have:

an airport with frequent flights to major European cities.
good train links to other parts of Germany.
a well organised local transport system.at least 5 interesting football clubs within easy reach.
lots of interesting things to do and see beyond going to games.

Hannover is a perfect match.

With an airport just outside town and linked to efficient intercity train network, Hannover is easy to get to. It’s a modern city, but 750 years of history mean there is plenty to see and do here. And, of course, there are plenty of football clubs within easy reach.

Bundesliga

2. Bundesliga clubs

3. Liga Clubs

Getting to Hannover

Plane

Hannover has its own airport – Hannover-Langenhagen. There are direct flights here from London Heathrow, Stansted and City, Birmingham, Manchester airports. A direct flight will cost about £150 return and take about 90 minutes.

The S5 train (S-Bahn) will take you from the airport (Terminal C) to the city centre in 18 minutes. Trains run every 30 minutes throughout the day.

You can also fly to Hamburg, Bremen or Düsseldorf and continue your journey by train.

Train

The city is a major rail destination, with intercity and regional connections right across the country. You can travel by Eurostar train all the way from London – changing at Brussels and Cologne. Find out more about getting to Hannover by train at the Deutsche Bahn website.

There is a large and very modern bus station with arrivals from all over Germany and beyond. A return ticket by bus – for example with Flixbus – will cost about £100.

Car

The city is also well served by Germany’s motorway network. The A2 (East-West) and A7 (North-South) motorways pass close to the city. The main German motoring organisation is called ADAC. You can use its website to plan your journey.

Getting around in Hannover

Local bus, tram and train services are integrated, so you can travel anywhere with the same ticket. Find out more about tickets and fares here.

Save money with the HannoverCard

You can by a one day HannoverCard for 20 euros. This gets you free travel on all local transport as well as access to special offers and reduced entrance to a range of attractions. Find out more here.

Getting around the region

If you decide to visit clubs beyond Hannover you will probably need to travel by train. You can plan trips and order e-tickets at the Deutsche Bahn website.

Another very helpful place to organise your travel is Loco2.

Save money with the Niedersachsen ticket

Hannover is in the middle of Lower Saxony (Niedersachen). Look out for the Niedersachsen rail ticket. This costs 23 euros for one person and then 4 euros per person for up to 4 more travellers. It entitles you to free travel for a day on RE, RB, S and RS trains all over the region. You can also use it on public transport in Osnabrück, Braunschweig, Hannover, Hamburg, Bremen and Wilhelmshaven. So for 39 euros (less than 8 euros each) you and four friends can explore all these places.

Bundesliga clubs

Hannover 96

Hannover 96 is one of Germany’s oldest and best-known football clubs. They play in a modern stadium within easy reach of the city centre and attract large, passionate crowds.

A very brief history

The club’s full name is Hannoverscher Sportverein von 1896. As the name suggests, Hannover 96 was founded in 1896 and initially adopted the name Hannoverscher Fussball-Club 1896. At first, the club was more interested in athletics and rugby. Football only came to the fore in 1899.
At the time there were a number of other clubs in Hannover. Following a series of mergers, the name Hannoverscher Sportverein 1896 finally emerged in 1905.
The club performed well throughout the early 20th century but fans had to wait until1938 before their team won its first championship (beating the strong favourites Schalke 04).
After World War II the victorious allies disbanded numerous organisations, including many football clubs, but Hannover was able to re-appear with its original name in 1946 and resume playing in the league in 1947.

Hannover were not included in the newly formed Bundesliga in 1963 but gained promotion the following year and remained there for a decade. Although they then returned from relegation in 1975, a second relegation the following year led to 17 seasons in the second tier.
The club was plagued by money problems in the 70s and early 90s. Winning the German Cup in 1992 was the only light in a gloomy two decades which culminated in demotion in 1996 into the Regional League.
1998 saw Hannover back in Bundesliga 2 and they returned to the top flight football in 2002.

In 2016 Hannover were relegated once more but bounced back the following season.

Tickets

You can buy tickets online or by phone (0049806189600) and they will cost you between 14 euros (standing) and up to 52 euros depending on where you want to sit and the match category (it costs more to see bigger teams like Bayern or Dortmund)

Stadium

Hannover 96 play their football in the HDI Arena. First opened in 1954 the stadium has a capacity of 49,000 (43,000 for international games) with 8,000 standing places. From 2002 to 2006 an extensive modernisation programme involving an almost complete rebuild enabled the stadium to be used as a venue for the 2006 World Cup.

Buying food and drink

You can’t pay in cash at the stadium. When you arrive you need to buy an HDI Arena Karte, which comes pre-loaded with 10 euros (you can put more on if you want). When you buy something you present the card and the price is taken off. At the end of the game, you can return the card and they will pay you back the remaining money.

Directions

The stadium is about twenty minutes walk from the city centre (and about 30 minutes from the main station).
You can get there by bus numbers 100 and 200 or light rail (Stadbahn) numbers S3 S7 S9 and S17.

Website

https://www.hannover96.de/startseite.html

VfL Wolfsburg

If you want more Bundesliga football VfL Wolfsburg is an hour away by regional train – and 30 by intercity.

The city of Wolfsburg was built by the National Socialists in 1938 to house workers at the factory they had set up to build the first Volkswagen cars.

Today it is still home to the VW concern – the world’s second-largest vehicle manufacturer and world’s largest car factory, which employs 40% of the city’s residents. The city has a population of 123,900. Thanks to the success and stability of VW Wolfsburg’s residents are reckoned to be amongst the most affluent and financially secure in the country.

The club we know today as VfL Wolfsburg began life as the football branch of the factory sports club – effectively a works team.

After the war, the Wolves progressed steadily through the divisions until they finally gained promotion to the Bundesliga in 1997. They have remained in the top tier since then, and have become a major power in German football, winning the League in 2009 and the Cup in 2015 and featuring regularly in Champions League and Europa League competitions. In terms of finance, size of fanbase and sustained success they are considered to be one of Germany’s top five teams.

Stadium

The Volkswagen Arena opened in December 2002. It has a capacity of 30,000, including 8,000 standing places.

They operate a cashless system inside the stadium. You need to pick up a card when you arrive and load it with some cash. You use it like a debit card to buy food and drink – and then get a refund of unspent funds before you leave.

Tickets

You can get tickets at the online shop and then either have them sent to you or print them yourself using Print@Home.

Directions

You can walk to the ground in 20 minutes.

Werder Bremen

Another top-tier team, Werder Bremen, is just over an hour away by intercity train.

Sportverein Werder Bremen von 1899 e.V. was founded in 1899, played its first ever match under name SV Werder in the same year, and was a founder member of the German Football Association (DFB).

With the exception of the 1980-81 season, Bremen have been in the top division every year since 1963. Despite inevitable ups and downs, they have been a powerful force in German football for most of that time, winning the championship three times, the German cup six times and the UEFA Cup Winners Cup once. On the club website, there is a table showing the games won and lost, goals scored and conceded and points accumulated by all Bundesliga clubs since its formation. Werder Bremen is in second place behind Bayern Munich and just ahead of Hamburg

Stadium

Werder Bremen play in the Weserstadion, which is situated close to the city centre. Although originally built in 1909 the stadium has been renovated four times, most recently between 2008 and 2011. These latest modifications have transformed the Weserstadion into one of the finest and most atmospheric sports venues in Europe. It has a capacity of 42,500 spectators (reduced to 37441 for international games) and has been designed to bring the crowd as close as possible to the action on the pitch.
As in all German stadiums, there are plenty of outlets where you can buy food and drink, but you can’t pay with cash. You will need to pick up a pre-paid Werder-Card from one of the many outlets in and around the ground. If you don’t spend all the money on the card you can reclaim it on your way out.

Tickets

You can order tickets from the club website. Everything is in German, but relatively straightforward and easy to understand. Alternatively, you can contact the club by email (tickets@werder.de) or phone (0039 421 43 45 90)
You can either arrange for your tickets to be sent to you or print them yourself using Print@Home.
Prices vary according to the opposition (It will cost more to see Bayern or Schalke than Ingolstadt. The cheapest tickets cost between 12 euros (standing) and 20 euros (seated).

Directions

The Weserstadion is just outside the city centre and you can walk there from the main station in about 40 minutes.
Alternatively, it is easy to get there by public transport – and your ticket gives you free use of all buses and trams to and from the ground on match days.
The most direct route would be to take the tram (Number 10) towards Sebaldsbrück getting out at Bremen Am Hulsberg. The stadium is about ten minutes walk away.
The Weserstadion is the only stadium in Europe that you can get to by boat. Go to Pier 2 on the waterfront to find it.

2 Bundesliga

Armenia Bielefeld

Deutscher Sport-Club Arminia Bielefeld is named after a Cherusian chieftain called Armenius who inflicted a famous defeat on the Roman army (the battle Battle of the Teutoburg Forest).

Founded in 1905, this is another of Germany’s oldest clubs. They first played in the Bundesliga in 1967/68, but since then have been another classic ‘elevator’ club. Arminia has achieved a few successful spells in the top tier but has also at times dropped out of the professional leagues altogether. Despite repeated financial difficulties and the occasional threat of bankruptcy the club has survived. Long-suffering Bielefeld fans are currently enjoying a period of relative success. In 2014/15 a run of thrilling victories over bigger clubs took them as far as the semi final of the German Cup. Bielefeld were third division champions the same year and moved up to the 2 Bundesliga.

They have maintained second-division status since then, although in 2016/17 they only narrowly avoided relegation by beating Eintracht Braunshweig 6:0 and drawing with Dynamo Dresden 1:1 in the last two games of the season.

Stadium

Melancthon Alm – SchücoArena

The Alm got its name because locals said the original stadium, which was built in 1926, looked more like a meadow (Alm) than a football ground. It has been modified several times since then. The most recent improvements were in 2007 when the East Stand was given a glass roof which contains photovoltaic elements to generate electricity. In 2004 a sponsorship deal with local window manufacturer Schüco resulted in a name-change to SchücoArena

It has a capacity of 26,515. There are 8,005 standing places and 18,510 seats.

The average attendance in 2016/17 was 17,504.

Tickets

Seats cost 28 euros and the price of a standing ticket is 12 euros. You can buy them at the fan shop in the Osttribüne of the stadium. There is also an online ticket shop.

The home end is the Südtribüne (south stand)

Away fans are allocated a corner of the Nordtribüne (north stand)

Directions

Bielefeld has a large train station with links to most major German cities. The nearest airports are Düsseldorf (2 hours) and Hannover (90 mins).

The simplest way to get to the ground is on foot. It will take you about 15 minutes.

If you don’t feel like walking, it’s also easy to reach by public transport. You need to make your way to the underground tram platform opposite the station entrance. If you are going to Blocks 1 to 4 (south stand) and Blocks M to T (main stand) take the number 4 towards “Universität/Lohmanshof” and get off at “Rudolf-Oetker Halle”. If you are going to Blocks B to J (west/north stand) tram 4 towards “Universität/Lohmannshof” and get off at “Graf-von-Stauffenberg-Straße”

If you are going to Blocks 1 and 2 (visiting supporters) take tram 3 towards “Babenhausen Süd” and get off at “Wittekindstraße” or “Nordpark”

The stadium is a short walk away from all these tram stops.

Hamburger SV

The club we know today as Hamburger Sport-Verein e.V (Hamburger SV) was founded in 1919 when three clubs merged. But it can trace its roots right back to the founding in 1887 of SG Germania.

Six times national champions, three times cup winners they have also won the league cup twice, as well as the European Cup Winners Cup and the European Cup – making them one of Germany’s most successful clubs.

Until 2017/18 Hamburger SV had played continuously in the top tier since the first world war and in the Bundesliga since its formation in 1963. Unfortunately finishing second to bottom last season resulted in automatic relegation to the 2 Bundesliga and the end of this proud record.

Stadium

The Volksparkstadion has a capacity of 56, 889, with 10,000 standing places. It was built in 2000 and has everything you would expect of a modern football stadium. If you have time, you might want to visit the HSV-Museum. They also put on guided tours, which you can book online here.

Tickets

There is an Online ticket shop. The instructions are in German, but the process is pretty straightforward. If you make contact by telephone or email there will be someone at the other end who can talk to you in English. The club also has its own travel agency where you can book hotel and tickets combined and fan shops in the town (eg. Schmiedestraße in the city centre) also sell tickets.

Directions

Your ticket entitles you to free travel on public transport to and from the ground. Take the S3 from the main station and get off at a stop called “Stellingen-Volksparkstadion”, where a shuttle bus will pick you up and take you to the ground. If you prefer to walk it will take you 15 minutes.

1 FC Magdeburg

1 FC Magdeburg was founded in 1965 and was the only club in the former GDR to win a European competition – the Cup Winners’ Cup in 1974. It spent all but one season in East Germany’s top division – the DDR-Oberliga. They were champions three times and won the cup seven times.

After German reunification, Magdeburg initially struggled on and off the pitch. Many good players were drawn to the glamour and higher pay of the Bundesliga clubs, poor results led to falling revenue. The club languished in the lower divisions for the next two decades but finally gained promotion to fe 3 Liga in 2015. Promotion to the 2 Bundesliga followed in 2018.

Stadium

The MDCC-Arena opened in 2006. It has 21,700 seats and 3,600 standing places. It is currently being modernised and expanded

Tickets

Tickets which you can order from the online ticket shop start at 15.50 euros for a standing place. Expect to pay between 20 and 40 euros for a seat.

Directions

It takes 45 minutes to walk from the station, through the town centre and across the river to the stadium.

SC Paderborn

SC Paderborn 07 can trace its roots rights back to 1907 when one of its many predecessor clubs was founded. The club we know today was formed in 1985 following a merger of two local sides and adopted its current name in 1997. Between then and 2005 Paderborn played in regional leagues and for the last 12 years, apart from one season in the Bundesliga, has moved between the 2nd and 3rd divisions.

In 2016/17 the club came very close to making history as the first football club to drop from the Bundesliga to the fourth division in three successive seasons. Having earned promotion to the Bundesliga for the first time in 2013/14 Paderborn endured a miserable season in the top division, finished bottom and dropped straight back into the 2 Bundesliga. In 2015/16 the misery continued, and Paderborn came bottom again. A third successive relegation in 2016/17 was avoided despite finishing in 18th place yet again because 1860 München, having been relegated from 2 Bundesliga, failed to meet DFB financial deadlines. As a result, the Bavarian club was refused a professional licence and put into a Regionalliga. This allowed Paderborn to hang onto league status.

Despite the last minute reprieve provided by 1860 München, Paderborn’s position remained extremely precarious. Average attendance in 2016/17 was down to 5,500 (compared to 15,000 in the Bundesliga season and 11,000 the following year). TV income, which was 18 million euros in the Bundesliga has dropped to 737,000 euros. The club required a loan from the sponsors of the Benteler Arena just to stay afloat.

But somehow Paderborn have managed to bounce back yet again. They finished the 2017/18 season in second place, just two points behind champions Magdeburg and 14 points clear of the third-placed Karlsruhe. So Paderborn begin the 2018/19 back in the 2 Bundesliga.

Stadium

The Benteler-Arena was opened in 2008. It has a capacity of 15,000, with 5,800 seats and 9,200 standing places. All parts of the ground are covered.

Tickets

Standing tickets cost 10 euros and seats cost between 20 and 27 euros. You can buy them at the Online Ticket Shop and at the club shop.

Directions

You can get to Paderborn from Hannover in about 2.5 hours. The cheapest way to travel is to buy a Schöner Tag Ticket. It costs 30 euros for one person and 44 euros for up to five. It lets you travel for a whole day (after 9 am) right across North Rhine-Westfalia and on any train except Intercity, EC and Thalys.

The journey from Hannover takes about 1 hour 50 minutes. The cheapest way to travel is to buy a Quer-Durchs-Land-Ticket. This will cost 44 euros for one person and an extra 8 euros for each of up to four additional travellers. You can use it on any train for a whole day (after 9 am) except Intercity, EC and Thalys.

Your match ticket entitles you to free local bus travel from the town centre to the stadium. The number 68 towards “Schöne Aussicht” will take there from the station in about 15 minutes. You get off at “Arena/Almeaue”

FC St Pauli

Despite the reference to 1910 in the name, the origins of St Pauli go right back to 1862, when the St Pauli Turnverein (Gymnastics club) was founded. Football was first played in 1907, they joined a football association in 1910 and first played in a league in 1911. The football club then separated from the gymnastics club in 1926 to form the FC St. Pauli we know today.

St Pauli were not in the original Bundesliga when it formed in 1963 and have only made it into the top flight twice (1977 and 2010)

They have spent most of this century going up and down between the 2 Bundesliga and Regionalliga Nord.

The cult of St Pauli

One of the club’s fundamental principles is that it is part of and should support its local community. It identifies strongly with the St Pauli district and the district identifies with the club – don’t try walking through St Pauli in a Hamburg SV shirt!.

Since the 1980’s the club has been linked with left-leaning politics and social activism. The skull and crossbones flag is recognised all over Germany as an emblem of St Pauli. Matches have a real party atmosphere and fans are encouraged to stay on after the final whistle.

For more background on the culture within the club, see this article by James Montague for CNN.

I can also recommend a brilliant book by Nick Davidson: Pirates, Punks and Politics

Stadium

The stadium is called the Millerntor. It’s right in the middle of the St. Pauli district and has a capacity of 29,060 (16740 standing)

Tickets

Ticket prices start at 12 euros.

There is an online ticket shop but tickets sell out really quickly. The club also runs a ticket exchange

Directions

Getting there by public transport is easy and cheap. A day ticket, letting you take any underground, tram or bus in Hamburg, will cost you 7.50 euros.

Start at the main station. Take a short walk to Hauptbahnhof Süd to get a U3 underground train towards Schlump-Barmbek and get out at St. Pauli.

The number 36 and 112 buses can also get you to the same place.

It’s then a very short walk to the ground.

3. Liga

Whenever I am in Germany, I try to take in at least one 3. Liga game before or after a Bundesliga encounter. It’s a very different experience, but I have never been disappointed.

These clubs are within range of Hannover.

Eintracht Braunschweig

Eintracht is the German word for unity. So Eintracht Braunschweig translates into English as Braunschweig United.

The club has a long and distinguished history. It was a founder member of the Bundesliga when it was formed in 1963 and won the league in 1967. The club’s most recent spell in the top tier – 2013/14 – ended in relegation. They came agonisingly close to promotion in 2016/17, losing the playoffs against Wolfsburg. But then finished the following season second from bottom. So Braunschweig is now a 3. Liga club.

The Lions have a strong and loyal fan base. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 20,545 – despite a disappointing season which ended in a 6-2 defeat to local rivals Holstein Kiel. 8 wins (6 at home and 2 away), 15 draws, 11 defeats.

Stadium

Braunschweig play at eh Eintracht-Stadion. It has a capacity of 23,325 (10,125 seats). It was originally built in 1923 but has been renovated several times – the most recent being 2011-2013.

It is also used for athletics events and has a running track.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 9 and 29 euros. You can order tickets online and there is a Print@Home facility

Directions

The train from Hannover to Braunschweig takes about 30 minutes.

On match-days a fleet of shuttle buses transports fans to the ground from the station. You return to the station the same way after the game. The M1 tram towards Wenden will also take you from the station to the stadium (your stop is called ‘Stadion’)

You enter the stadium by different entrances depending on where you are sitting/standing.

West entrance via Hamburger Straße
South entrance via Rheingoldstraße
East entrance via Guntherstraße

Preußen Münster

300,000 people live in Münster – and 50,000 of them are students. It’s an old, historic city that was founded in the early middle ages and its rich history is reflected in its many old buildings.

Münster claims to be Germany’s bicycle capital. The bicycle is the most common way for residents to get around and there is a car-free ring around the city centre. The city also recently won an award for being one of the nicest places to live in the world.

SC Preußen 06 Münster was founded in 1906 and was a founding member of the German Bundesliga when it was formed in 1963. The club’s greatest achievement was to come second in the German championship in 1951. In recent years Preußen Münster has struggled with financial difficulties and inconsistent performance and for a time they dropped out of the professional leagues altogether. Recent improvements have led to promotion to the 3. Liga in 2011 and steady top-half finishes every year.

Stadium

Münster play in the Preußenstadion and last season achieved a highly respectable average attendance of 7,220. When it was built in 1926, this was one of the most modern in Germany. Although the club is implementing a programme to bring it up to date, this is most definitely not the case today. But in my opinion, that is why it’s such a great place to experience German football.

There is an open space just inside the stadium which contains stalls selling very reasonably priced food and drink. This is a great place to have a Bratwurst and a beer before the game. There are also outlets behind the stands on either side of the pitch.

Tickets

Games are rarely sold out, so you can probably get a ticket on the day. If you like to plan ahead, use the Online Ticket Shop.

A standing ticket costs 12.80 euros. Seats cost between 20.50 euros and 24.90 euros. Unless you really need to sit during the game, I would advise you to buy a ticket for Block L. This is the most popular area of the ground, so you will get the chance to stand amongst lots of very vocal fans. At the same time, you will be able to see and hear the hard-core fans behind the goal. If you prefer a bit of comfort and protection from the weather, there is a covered seated section along one side of the pitch (Blocks A to F). The opposite stand (Blocks K and L) is also covered, but standing only. This section gets really full and generates a great atmosphere. The hard-core fans gather behind the goal in Blocks M, N and O. This section is not covered.

Directions

You can get to there by bus (1, 5 and 9 from the station to “Preußenstadion”), but it’s just as easy to go on foot.

As you leave the station follow the signs for the Altstadt. After about five minutes you will reach a wide tree-lined path which runs around the town centre. Turn left here and follow the path until you reach a roundabout. Take the third exit onto Hammer Straße and just keep walking until you get to the stadium.

VfL Osnabrück

The full name of this old club is Verein für Leibesübungen von 1899 e.V. Osnabrück. Its story started in 1899 when a number of “wild” clubs came together to become Fußball Club 1899 Osnabrück. The club’s early history is a complicated story of mergers, splits and name changes – and the current name first appeared in 1925.

After the war, the club was placed in Oberliga Nord where it did well in a league which also contained Hamburger SV, Werder Bremen and FC St Pauli. When the Bundesliga was formed in 1963, Osnabrück joined the second tier Regionalliga Nord and then the 2. Bundesliga. Despite coming close on several occasions, the club was never able to gain promotion to the Bundesliga.

In 2009 VfL Osnabrück was relegated to the 3. Liga where it has remained for the last eight seasons.

Stadium

The Bremer Brücke first opened in 1931, but it has been refurbished a number of times and thanks to a recent expansion now has a capacity of 16,667 with 10,475 standing places. A standing ticket costs 11 and a seat between 25 and 29 euros.

Tickets

There is an online shop and you can also order tickets by phone (49180301899) and at the Tourist Information Office on Bierstraße. There are two Fan Shops – one at the stadium and one on Krahnstraße. They also sell tickets.

Directions

The direct train from Hannover to Osnabrück will take you about one and a half hours. The cheapest way to travel is with the Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket – 44 euros for one person and 8 euros each for up to four additional travellers and valid for a whole day from 9 am on trains (except for IC and EC) across Germany. Find out more here.

Plan your journey on the Deutsche Bahn website.

Bus numbers 91, 92, 31, 32, 33, 81, 82 will all take you from the station to the Bremer Brücke.

Nickname: Lila-Weiß (the lily whites

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Things to see and do in Hannover

Hannover is one of Germany’s greenest cities. Although it was almost totally destroyed during WW2 it has been carefully restored and timber-framed houses and period building give the city a historic feel. And there are plenty of things to see and do here as well as watch football. Here are my top suggestions.

Visit the Herrenhausen gardens

This 300-year-old garden complex is one of Hannover’s major attractions. The centrepiece, called the “Great Garden”, is the best know baroque garden in Europe and tourists flock here in their thousands.

Wander through the old town (Altstadt)

Hannover’s old town, which was almost completely destroyed during the second world war, has been painstakingly restored and is now perfect if you want to do a bit of shopping, sit in a cafe or simply wander through the atmospheric streets.

You can book a guided walking tour

Take the lift to the top of the New Town Hall

This lift is curved. As you go up you can look through the floor at the city below. When you get to the top you get a superb view of Hannover and its surroundings. 97.73 meters

Hop on a bus

Tours on open top double-decker buses leave from the tourist information office every two hours. There is a commentary in English which describes the main sights of the city. You can get on and off and use the buses as often as you like for a 24 hour period.

Walk around Maschsee

This is a beautiful lake in the centre of town. People walk or jog around the banks, have picnics or try water sports.

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